Yey! Engine Back Together In Short Block Form!

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Mar 15, 2004 | 03:07 AM

#11

BDC

Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 917

From: Grand Prairie, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Mar 14 2004, 10:46 PM

Crank it with the plugs out until your oil pressure guage moves. I cranked mine 10-15 seconds a few times untill the oil had a chance to work itself through the cooler and filter. Then when it wouldn't read any higher on the guage (40PSI or whatever), I threw the plugs in and it started to fire within the first two seconds of cranking and then ran pretty well on the choke. I was like holy crap!

I did make one mistake though. I forgot to add some sealant to the legs on one side of a rotor housing. I haven't looked very closely, but I don't think any oil is seeping up between the housing and plate yet. I used hylomar as a sealant on the legs.

I hope this other engine I'm currently rebuilding turns out as well as the first one.

Hylomar will work wondorously well as a sealant between those legs and tubular dowel pin points you're talking about. I use it exclusively and it's quite good and will do the job.

On my first-time startups, I recommend the same thing -> kill EFI system (or fuel on a carb) supply as well as spark and crank the engine until the oil pressure gauge begins to move. This helps ensure me that the critical oiling stuff (oil pump, front cover o-ring, plumbing lines) is functioning well.

B

Mar 15, 2004 | 04:08 AM

#12

Jeff20B

Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 2,284

I like to use hylomar on the front cover O ring too. I noticed in those pictures you used hylomar on the legs and the dowel pin O rings. I just used vaseline on my dowels. Should I have used hylomar?