In a couple of my earlier posts Lynn E. Hanover said it and Judge Ito also mentioned it but I would like to know why -



The FSM talks about torquing the front e-shaft bolt to 180 to 200 ft/lbs. But Lynn suggested torquing to 90 ft/lbs and Judge Ito said not to tighten to 180. What is the reason to differ from the FSM?



And how much red loctite do I use? A drop? or a line along the threads?



Again thanks for all the information,



Jeff

 

i toqure to 90 and use mazdas gray sealent on the frount bolt as there is oil there. never had one leak never had one come loose

 

thanks for the reply. how much red loctite do you use?

jeff

 

i have never used loctite on them before the only bolts i was loctiting was the oil strainer and now i safty wire the strainer bolts . i only use the mazda gray sealent and the copper washer on the frount crank bolt. i put a small amount of sealent on the threads and that does the trick for me

 

I read in the Racing Beat catalogue that factory torque is 72 to 87 foot pounds. To help stiffen the front end of the crank. They suggest torque as high as 120 pounds. This is for stock engines with the massive pulleys, and lots of side load from various accessories. The threads on the bolt would no doubt hold up to 200 pounds with no trouble. If the manual says it should be higher then I would go higher. I would be tempted to try it out on a junk crank first. If the bolt was torqued to 200 before this rebuild, the end play should stay the same with the pieces you have now. But be sure to check end play if you go to 200 pounds. I do not know if this is required or even advisible, as I have never lost a front stationary bearing, or, broken a crank nose off. Just sealant on the threads and washer to avoid a small oil leak.



Lynn E. Hanover

 

what engine is it? the pre FD motors are like 65 or so (i look in the book, so i dont recall), the FD motors go tighter, but again i'd look in the book, which is on the internet