using torque stick to torqe e-shaft bolt?
#1
So heres my delima. I want to put my motor in today. Only thing remaining on the motor to be done, are put the flywheel on, oil pan, and torque the eshaft bolt.
Problem is I dont have a flywheel stopper for a TII, so i dont really know how im going to be able to torque the front eshaft bolt. The it hit me, ive got some torque sticks that I regularly use for torqueing lug nuts. If I remember right the torque spec for that bolt is like 90 ft/lbs. I have a torque stick for 80 ft/lbs and one for 100 ft/lbs. Is this ok to do???
Problem is I dont have a flywheel stopper for a TII, so i dont really know how im going to be able to torque the front eshaft bolt. The it hit me, ive got some torque sticks that I regularly use for torqueing lug nuts. If I remember right the torque spec for that bolt is like 90 ft/lbs. I have a torque stick for 80 ft/lbs and one for 100 ft/lbs. Is this ok to do???
#5
Originally Posted by hornbm' post='836190' date='Sep 8 2006, 12:55 PM
not talking about the flywheel nut, im talking about the front bolt
I assume that the pulley was installed and torqued during build up prior to checking crank end play?
If te pulley must then be removed it would be nice to have packed the thrust bearings and spacer in grease so that nothing moves while the pulley is off.
Put a drop of red Loctite on the bolt and use 80 pounds. Better a little extra end play than not quite enough.
Typically the build would include a longer spacer and 110 pounds of torque to help stiffen the crank nose.
If you don't use the longer spacer, the added torque will close up some end play and make it (possibly) too tight.
Try puting a bolt into the flywheel from the front or through from the back, in one of the balance holes and fit a short socket between it and any case bolt head. Tape the socket in place. For auto trans counterweights just the socket against the counterweight works just fine.
Lynn E. Hanover
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