hksthor

whats the cap rotor and leads like? is it points or electronic if its points check the gap and replace the condeser as these can give all sorts of strange probs also check to make sure coil is gettting battary voltage if its a 12v coil if it is ballsast type it should be around 6 to 8 volts check for voltage drop to the coil (needs to be done with circuit running) are the leading and trailing around right way is the advance side of things working ie mechancle advance and vacume if these are not working and engine is running retarded up in rev range it will be flat hope i have shed some light

CustomEngr

again, I have little experience with rotaries, but this should be true with any 4-cycle. Once the engine is modified, you can throw out all the OEM timing and electrical settings. OEM is designed for compromises like MPG, emissions, sound, temp, longevity, etc. For modified V8's:

1.Start engine, if it spins easily, timing is retarded, Advance the dist a little, repeat, repeat until it is hard to start, back off 2-3 degrees. (this is independent of the actual timing mark numbers). You can use this set up to test if you're marks are off, and check the advance. (if advance if working well, engine may start knocking at high rpm.)



This is the highest initial timing you can have. You engine should run fine above 4k. That is the purpose of the mechanical advance, easy starting and progressive timing with rpm. But if you modified the ports your timing curve will be 'not optimal'.



but if everything is working correctly and installed correctly my vote is coil or carb. Holley's make excellent power, but they are a bitch to tune and fail easily.



Note: early say pre-90's cars timing marks were routinely off -4 to 4 degrees, that's why knowing how to degree cam based on actual TDC and valve opening was such a science (v8's). I never use factory timing marks anymore.