Spun Front Stat Gear Bearing

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12-13-2007, 05:31 PM

#31

teknics

Senior Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Dec 2002

Location: Wayne, NJ

Posts: 4,837

i dont know why but i always seem to buy the blue metallic purolator filters, i honestly dont even know if they do a better job, i think the paint job gets me.

kevin.

12-13-2007, 05:32 PM

#32

teknics

Senior Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Dec 2002

Location: Wayne, NJ

Posts: 4,837

i dont know why but i always seem to buy the blue metallic purolator filters, i honestly dont even know if they do a better job, i think the paint job gets me.

kevin.

12-16-2007, 05:39 PM

#33

j9fd3s

Senior Member

Join Date: May 2002

Location: California

Posts: 22,465

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='889979' date='Dec 12 2007, 03:27 PM

Well, there is not much filter paper in a Fram. There used to be a sales kit made up by Wicks filters, a division of Dana corp. to show the difference between a Wicks and a Fram. They chose a Fram because Fram sells a lot of filters, and are one of the poorest built filters you can buy.

The cans for both filters was cut off and you could take out the parts and inspect them.

The burst strength of the can was 200 PSI.

The Fram had paper end caps. A flat sheet metal spring. the end plate was thinner and not the full width of the filter can. The total area of the media was 104 square inches.

The Wix had metal end caps. A real coil spring. Thicker and full width end plate. Total media area was 416 square inches. Burst strength was 350 PSI.

So, if you have a Fram screwed onto that high dollar engine, think about a trip to the NAPA store for a Wicks filter for your baby. Or better yet, see if there is a K&N that will fit. Way better than Fram and a 550 PSI burst strength. You have not seen a real oil fire until you blow a Fram filter can off its end plate.

Lynn E. Hanover

back when we got the japanese oil filters from mazda we had a little display too, the jdm mazda filter wasnt folded in a circle, this let them double the filter media, over the previous designs.

this would have been when they switched to the small can filter, the small filter actually has more filter in it.

12-19-2007, 06:12 AM

#34

Barry Bordes

Member

Join Date: Jun 2004

Location: Slidell, LA

Posts: 52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='889002' date='Dec 1 2007, 06:28 PM

So even in unboosted engines we run straight weight oil synthetic with the highest possible film strength. In boosted engines you would be stomping on thin ice when you scream a boosted engine with street car oil in the sump.

Lynn E. Hanover

Lynn, I enjoy reading your knowledgeable responses on the forum.

I have a question. Mazda side seal orings seem to shrink and then leak terribly when using Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Do you use viton orings (or some other type) to prevent this or are the stock orings not affected by Red Line syn oil?

Respectfully,

Barry Bordes

12-19-2007, 10:38 PM

#35

Lynn E. Hanover

Fabricator

Join Date: Jan 2004

Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.

Posts: 1,322

Quote:

Originally Posted by 246rx7' post='890440' date='Dec 19 2007, 05:12 AM

Ouch,

I never had that happen. But I have never used Mobile one either. So that may be it.

The special "O" ring idea came from a news group that puts rotaries into airplanes.

In engines I have built for others I use new "O" rings. There may still be some black ones laying

on a parts shelf somewhere, but the newer green rings work fine, and will survive a moderate over heat episode.

I had one case of both inner and outer failing at the same time after a major oil temp problem.

A plastic bag got on the screen in front of the oil radiator during a race, and pegged the oil temp.

The next race, when I fired up the car it started smoking real bad and nothing I could think of would stop it.

The rings had broken into one inch long pieces from the heat damage. But appear to have done it after the engine cooled down.

In my own engines, if the oil temp has been under control, I use the old ones over again, and never a problem. If you come across any of the black ones, just pitch them. Save yourself a rebuild.

If the oil temp has not been above say 210 degrees I would suspect that the oil could have been at fault. In the early days of synthetics, they changed the formulas every week in response to what kind of failures they got reports of. Once you place a product into the public, your testing program can start looking pretty weak. So you make a change based on your own 100,000 miles of testing, and the public will put in a million miles of testing by tuesday at noon.

When I was a policeman in Columbus Ohio years ago, Mobile wanted all kinds of data on fleet use.

So, they gifted the city with all of the oil used in police cruisers. Since the engines are seldom even turned off during their lifetimes. A Dodge dealer had the contract to change out the oil because the cars were all new Chrysler products. Chrysler wanted the data as well. So on delivery, the fleet oil was drained and replaced with the first version of Mobile one. We had lost 5 engines in three weeks,

and the deal was dropped. Went back to Texaco fleet oil (the worst oil on earth) and no more problems.

So is the mobile one perfect? Probably a very good oil for street use. It is said to comes in Corvetts?

I have never had an oil related failure since 1980 using either Valvolene racing 50 wt. Or, Redline racing 40 wt. And we shift at 9,600 RPM every shift. This is with all of the oiling mods and never less than 100 PSI of oil pressure.

Lynn E. Hanover