teknics

i was going to try to not be offended by this comment, but ill keep it short.



I'm building a completely custom 89 t2 with 0 stock parts with over $40k invested.

I bought the FD in december, with broken everything. dismantled engine bay, dismantled interior, blown motor, no turbos, no exhaust, fucked up suspension, and tons of grime from sitting for 4-5 years before i bought it.

I wanted the car running ASAP, so day 2 of me owning the car i ripped the engine bay to emptiness and brought the motor about 10 minutes away from me to be rebuilt.



meanwhile i had to completely from scratch decide on (the car was an impulse buy, like all my cars) and assemble all of the things i would need to go from a car with nothing to a car capable of 450+rwhp (anything else is too low for my blood, look at my other car). Nevermind the fact that almost the entire motor wound up being garbage so i then had to source almost all of my engine parts at the same time as well. oh and did i mention i had to make a wiring harness from scratch since i had 2 that were both crapola? and i got to do all of this on what is basically the first fd i ever really looked at/worked on/ thought about. im an fc guy, in all honesty, and know fc's like the back of my hand, and believe me the fd and fc are barely related when you get deep into it.



I had the entire setup put together and running approx. 3 months after buying the car. to the point that all it needed was a tune and a paint job. and if you think 3 months is long consider the fact that at the time i was working 70+hour/week shifts with only 1 day off, where i live i have limited access to the computer nowadays, and i was still building my other car at the same time.



if you can manage to do that AND build the motor you need, then you can come see me and i STILL wont give a damn that i let someone else build my motor.



and it comes with a warranty, which apparently was useless in this case, but lets see you warranty your own work to yourself.



</rant>



i love when people dont know me.



kevin.

RONIN FC

Stop being a bitch and build that engine yourself. I bet you "give a damn" you let someone build it now that its broken!



I didnt ask for a sob story, just wanted to know why you didn't build it.





LOL, I can just picture you snapping your fingers in the air "Y'ALL DON'T KNOW ME"...

1Revvin7

Kevin,



If you're going to have another engine built, drop off the car, and tell them you want to pick the car and have it all done. Meaning you test drive the car with a someone from the shop and you run the living **** out of it. If it break they cannot deny fault. Its that simple. Thats how things are run around here, and I have yet to have a single customer complain about anything.

rotary1307cc

It goes from back to front....



You could of had a partial blockage like i said and you still see the same oil press on the guage because the regulators would just shed more oil to keep the same press



or



exactly how Colinrx7 decsribed the ecessive clearance showing perfect oil pressure because the regulator would just not shed as much and show a similar press

teknics

yea they have the car right now, and thats what ive decided to do this time around, however i dont have a fully tuned map and they dont tune the car. Its tuned decently for vaccuum but boost im not sure of, never boosted it.



kevin.

Lynn E. Hanover

Oil with fuel in it is not oil at all. It is crap with no film strength at all.



Multi-grade oils have the pour grade of the lower number. Many long train polymers are added to increase the pour number at high temps ti simulate (not actually be.........) a thicker oil.



So if you run a 5W-50 for example, the actual base oil is a 5 weight (thinner than cat ****) with a bunch of cheap plastic crap added to make it act like 50 weight oil at operating temperature. Just fine for normal street cars that actually never stress the oil under any conditions. Normal street cars seldom see even 3,000 RPM in their whole lives. But this is not us, is it? We like to see that mother dip deep into the red once in a while don't we? The multi-grades need more of other stuff to make them work as well. They foam redily, and hold the foam longer. Rotaries have a big foaming problem by way of spraying oil into the spinning rotors.



So even in unboosted engines we run straight weight oil synthetic with the highest possible film strength. In boosted engines you would be stomping on thin ice when you scream a boosted engine with street car oil in the sump.



If you smell fuel on the dip stick, dump the oil and refill with a good street oil. Drive gently for a few days, and dump that oil, and replace with a great synthetic straight weight oil and a new filter. And take a whiff of that dip stick a bit more often. That will improve the film strength situation.



That grey stuff on the bearings is one of many possible compounds replicating the old Lead/Indium covering from years ago. It is about .001" (or a bit less) thick. It is there so any chunk of crap that gets by the filter or is from the hoses or fittings beyond the filter will be pushed into this soft layer and not stay above the surface, and machine away part of the crank. This stuff is very soft. It has a very low melting temperature. So, when the oil gets hot this stuff gets softer. When you load the hell out of a bearing this stuff moves out of the loaded zone. Like your thumb on a stick of warm butter, it just moves away.



So, for high loads, we cool the oil with bigger coolers. By spraying water on the water and oil radiators.

By jacking up the oil pressure so as to move heated oil off of the bearing faster. For racing where added oil clearance is wanted anyway, this soft surface is machined away and we run on the copper as the bearing surface. Very strong. High melting temperature. Oil must be kept very clean. But this is extream and even the stock bearings will hold up to enourmous loadings with cooled oil at high pressure. (100 PSI minimum). Generally an additional oil line is run in parellel to the stock (dowel gallery) upper oil line inside the engine. So the cross section is more than doubled to the front main bearing. This is run from a block on top of the oil filter adaptor. All race engine run a form of this external line. I use a dash 12, although many use a dash 10 to good affect. The dowel gallery is not

plugged.



Oil breakdown from contamination or over heating shows up (if you get to see it befor the bearing dies) shows up as streaks of blackend carbon, and some movement of the indium. The bearing may have a shinny spot or two, but mostly looks dirty.



An over stressed bearing where oiling is adequate shows up as a checked surface. like a stone walkway with seams between the stones. Some indium will be moving off the edges of the bearing and some silver flakes will show up in the filter paper.



Oil starvation/foaming (pickup uncovered) shows up as a shinny bearing surface (if you get to see it in time) all over. Material extruding off the edges of the loaded sides. Bits of copper starting to show through the indium. Copper and indium flakes in the filter paper.



The bearings at high speed are supporting thousands of pounds of loading. Jacking up the oil pressure from a stock (all early relief valve settings) 71 PSI to 100 PSI or 110 PSI, has absolutly nothing to do with supporting that load. It has only to do with moving overheated oil off of the bearing so that the indium stays where it belongs.



I use only 40 weight Red Line racing synthetic in the sump, and pre mix 1 oz of Red Line synthetic 2 cycle oil in each galon of fuel. 97 octane pump gas with no alchohol.



Remember: Friends don't let friends use Fram filters in anything.



Lynn E. Hanover

Jims5543

+1





FYI - I spun my rear stat gear bearing and was lucky to only destroy my rear rotor housing. I know what caused it though, I dyno'd the car with 460 miles on it.





As far as building your own engine who gives a **** what others think. Its your car do what you want.



I am capable of building my own engine and choose not to. I do not have the time. I prefer to spend my "car time" actually driving my car at track days and autocrosses. If I spent all my car time under my hood I would never have any time the drive it. So I use a local shop that I trust very much.







Also - This shop just got an "fresh" engine in from a pretty big named re-builder in the Southeast, the owner of the engine wanted it torn down because he had a bad feeling.



This was a 13B-REW engine to go into a 93.



Rotor Housings were from a Series 5 TII motor.

Rotors were S4 TII

Oil pump was scored up and pretty much done.

Oil pressure control (I am forgetting correct name right now) was smashed down so the spring would compress further and cause a false higher oil pressure reading.

Front and rear stat bearings were used and marginal. (j9fd3s)

apex seals were 3 piece 3mm.





The engine was a Frankenstein engine, it was a mix match of some pretty shitty parts and some tricks thrown in to make it look like it was a better engine.



I have concluded the rotary world is FULL of sheisters. Even my last rebuild from a prominent player was crap when we opened it up, I always wondered why I had so much blow by and why I would pump up to a quart of oil in the the catch can at track days. why I was always black flagged and forced to come to the pits to explain why I was making so much smoke on decel.



When we opened up my engine my side seal clearances looked like they were done with popsicle sticks!! I paid good money for this engine and I was pissed.





This last engine, I helped assemble, the mechanic called me up and we put it together so I could personally inspect every part myself as it when together. I am 100% sure this engine is perfect. The engine with 450 miles on it was my fault, I had no business on the dyno that soon.



I say you do the same, demand to be at the shop when they assemble your engine so you can inspect it.

j9fd3s

haha, i see you've cut one open too!



theres no filter in a fram "filter"

mazdaspeed7

Kevin, I dont know if this applies to your car or not, but I had the exact same thing happen to me on a 6 port I built a long while back. I had removed the OMP(was running premix only), but I failed to block off the oil feed that goes from the front iron to the OMP on the front cover flange. My oil pressure always read fine, but the first time I took it to redline in 3rd gear, it catastrophically spun the front bearing. Exactly what you described, including the destroyed thrust bearings, stat gear, all the spacers and crap on the ecc shaft, and such. Having my OMP blocked off was allowing that passage to act as a bleed hole dumping oil that should have gone to the front main bearing.

teknics

As far as my OMP, the OMP was functioning properly, however the rotor #1 oil injector apparently was bad, and therefore letting oil out into the vaccuum hose that was connected to it, i figured that was alright since i was running 1oz:1gal of premix for safety during the breakin period.



perhaps it had something to do with the shot oil injector.



kevin.