Rotor Bearing Installation

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Jan 7, 2004 | 12:39 AM

#11

crispeed

Member

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 84

From: Miami

Use a square and a black magic marker to mark the bearing. You can also mark the alignment spot on the rotor on the rotor gear.

Jan 7, 2004 | 12:41 AM

#12

pengaru

Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2002

Posts: 2,930

From: IL

Quote:

Originally Posted by BDC' date='Jan 2 2004, 07:42 PM

I just had an idea, and maybe someone already suggested this, but wouldn't it be more of a fool proof way of pressing the bearing in on-target if you use a sharpee marker or something and mark a straight line, straight down, from the point of the indexer on the outside of the bearing?

B

No, that would make too much sense.

Jan 11, 2004 | 03:05 AM

#13

pk797

Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2002

Posts: 204

From: Queens, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by net seven' date='Jan 2 2004, 02:00 AM

Actually I took the rotor and put it on my e-shaft and spun it around. Took it back out and checked and there isnt really any high spots. Just some friction marks here and there from turning with no oil. There wasnt even any parks around that area of that lip. Anyways, I ordered a bearing and I'll have atkins press it in for me. Its only $10 a rotor and if they mess up, its their problem to get a new bearing.

Quick note

I wouldn't make a habit of spinning the rotor on the E-shaft dry. You might end up having to replace more than just a bearing.

PK797 NYC

Jan 25, 2004 | 10:22 AM

#14

Lynn E. Hanover

Fabricator

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 1,322

From: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.

Quote:

Originally Posted by net seven' date='Dec 30 2003, 03:08 AM

I pressed in the rotor bearing and its a little off with the tooth. I was wondering if it has to be totally in the spot or if the way I have it is fine. It went in so tight I dont see it ever moving in there. What do you guys recommend? Here is a picture of what im talking about.

You should do what you feel comfortable with. You know what capabilities you have.

I grind the tab off of the bearing before I press it in. The tab is of no value at all for locating the bearing. It is not required to be indexed in any direction. If the bearing begines to fail, that tab will keep it from spinning for maybe one more revolution, and by the time the bearing has begun to seize on the shaft, it is already too late to save anything.

Mazda used to use three set screws and the tab to fasten the bearing in the rotor.

They no longer bother. There is no point at all for the tab.

I rescue race bearings from one rotor and press them into another, no tabs ever.

For the missaligned tab problem, I would say that the tab has bent the area of the bearing around the groove in the rotor. I would reduce that area with a die grinder to include grinding away all of the tab. Wash out the rotor and go right ahead with the build up. It won't hurt a thing.

Lynn E. Hanover

Jan 25, 2004 | 02:43 PM

#15

Jeff20B

Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 2,284

I've seen some wear areas near each set-screw on an old (6mm carbon apex seal) rotor. I've also seen the aftermath of a spun rotor bearing on a newer rotor. That tab was flattened and an inch or two away from its home. The tab was a good idea, but not completely necessary.