Renesis Rotors
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,420
From: Boston Ma.
Originally Posted by The Ultimate 7' date='Apr 29 2004, 01:47 PM
Here is a really excellent post form the Rx8forum about this subject:
Why would someone with a street car take an REW motor, capable of 400+ stock block run 10.1 rotors? To run low boost, while on the fringe of destruction? For off boost response? Seems hardly worth it.
I can see some methanol fueled race car that gets torn down every couple of races needing higher C/R to combat the lag from a tremendously large turbo.
I think most people forget they drive street cars.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 521
From: Hell (Colorado School of Mines)
Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Apr 30 2004, 11:04 AM
I think most people forget they drive street cars.
Anyway, I have to rebuild my S4 motor soon and I wanted to put better rotors in it. I have a set of S5 counterweights and one good S5 rotor. I have access to a machine shop so milling isnt a big issue. From my understanding, to get Renesis rotors, I need just the rotors and the counterweights. In your opinions, would it be better to just buy one more S5 rotor, or should I get the Renesis rotors? And what is the cost of each solution?
Thnx
Andy
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 453
From: A2, MI
If I were rebuilding an NA engine, S4 housings etc, minimal or no porting, would using the stock FE seals work fine? All the concerns I see above seem to be centered around applying boost to the seals, but sticking with the compression ratio they were designed for, in different housings, they should be fine, yes?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,420
From: Boston Ma.
Your better off with S5 rotors and counterweights. The machineing and balancing makes it not worth it.
The rens apexs need to be machined out to take a conventional seal. The rens apex cant take the heat from the peripheral exhaust, and isnt designed to cross an opening.
The rens apexs need to be machined out to take a conventional seal. The rens apex cant take the heat from the peripheral exhaust, and isnt designed to cross an opening.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Originally Posted by The Ultimate 7' post='514288' date='Apr 29 2004, 02:47 PM
Here is a really excellent post form the Rx8forum about this subject:
Also keep in mind guys if the 3rd gen if felt stock it will easily go over 100k miles with its poor factory setup. Mine has 79k with original vac lines and runs damn near perfect. I'll give Rotorygod much props for the above info.
my fd has 93k on everything too, its had rear brakes, a clutch and a radiator, everything else is factory. part of that is how the thing had been used. the fd doesnt have the cooling to do much more than short bursts....
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 426
Originally Posted by Robbomaz' post='395619' date='Nov 24 2003, 03:47 AM
We probably could have used the renesis seals, but this was not something I could be definate about, given that we knew the seals did not cross a port as designed.
The renesis seals may well be fine but that was not a risk I wanted to take with this guys motor. He is an unsponsored racer (apart from our discount price
i think you may have chosen correctly with that one. i was at mazdatrix a few months ago and they told me how they warped the apex seals in the rx8 rotors.
i think they were also spinning it in the neighborhood of 10kish rpm though, so i'd wonder if the seals could tolerate the life of a turbo streetcar-which would peak out closer to the 6500-7500ish rpm range...and not have to stay in that range for 20 minutes at a time... just a thought.
