Position of Rotors on 12A rebuild
#1
Hi, Does anyone know at which points my front and rear rotors need to facing? I am rebuilding my mates 12A but the site that I normally look at is unable to be displayed. I have searched the forums, FAQ's etc but get nothing matching and I have tried all sorts of subject differences. I have just rebuilt my own 13B, but I remember seeing on the site that one point of each rotor needs to be facing a certain way for a 12A or was I reading wrong and it dosn't matter where they sit??? Any help would be appreciated as I have spent an hour searching.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
download a facory service manual.. this is for a 13B but the alignment is the same..
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_servi...1/01_engine.pdf
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_servi...1/01_engine.pdf
#4
Originally Posted by RX7 RZ' post='771309' date='Oct 20 2005, 10:56 PM
Hi, Does anyone know at which points my front and rear rotors need to facing? I am rebuilding my mates 12A but the site that I normally look at is unable to be displayed. I have searched the forums, FAQ's etc but get nothing matching and I have tried all sorts of subject differences. I have just rebuilt my own 13B, but I remember seeing on the site that one point of each rotor needs to be facing a certain way for a 12A or was I reading wrong and it dosn't matter where they sit??? Any help would be appreciated as I have spent an hour searching.
Thanks
The short answer is that the front rotor sits with the apex (pointy end) up and the crank throw
at the top of the engine also. Most books show it that way. Rotor 2 goes in point down.
After you build a few you can have the rotors pointed side to side, and put your knee under the crank nose to hold it up while slipping the center iron on. If you ever get a rotor off location just a bit the rotor housing will not fit. Kind of a safety thing. So, at least that part is nearly impossible to screw up.
There are a couple of painfull items to get right.
The oil scraper springs at first look identical, but are not. half are for the front side of the rotor and half are for the back of the rotor. Pay attention to this or it will be a smoker after a few months.
When lifting the crank up high enough out of the front stationary gear so that the number 2 iron (center iron)
can be tilted far enough to so as to slip down across the center of the crank, get some help. Or make a bracket for your stand that slips under the nose to hold the crank up if you must work alone.
Super glue the corner piece of the apex seal to the big piece. Slip the whole seal and spring together into the slot with the corner piece first.
Have all parts dead clean before you start, and that includes no carbon buildup in any slots.
Buy a book like the Haynes manual. Good enough to get the job done.
Lynn E. Hanover
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