RE-tech

Yes as the topic says ,



Any "special" pointers , beside the essential ones .



Such as : the twin dizzy rotor housing surface , is maybe best suited to the light 6mm OEM "carbon "apex seals , how will the surface work with , say , OEM s3 rx-7 12a seals / atkins etc etc , steel ones , increased wear ,



: Weight difference , counterweight - flywheel . Use the front & rear counterweight matching the new rotors , and / or matching flywheel .



: Stat gear upgrade to newer / matching type rotors used



: Asymetrical combustion "chambers" differences on newer rotors , FRONT / REAR rotor .



: Placing of intake ports , regarding former dual sideseals , now single sideseal .



If anyone should have som input , pls share .



Thanks .

j9fd3s

for sure you need the s3 counter weights. IMO you should use the 3mm carbon seals (mazdacomp, racing beat, mazdatrix all carry).



might as well use the later stat gears, and oil pump



i think the newer rotors are like the old ones without the inner side seals, so the ports work



the s3 combustion chamber is also "faster" so if you're tuning for max power, timing might be different



building a vintage racer? or just a restoration?

RE-tech

Thanks for the input mr! ,





A friend of a friend is restoring a rx-2 , and the engine needs an overhaul , so changing the rotors to newer ones that have parts in stock . Not having to search world wide to find 6mm parts etc .



In my own car a Rx-626 , im using carbons on a 12a full bridge , and im very satisfied with them allround , so on a even friendlier stockport the will work great , and their lifespan will be more than sufficant for this, season / meet car .

j9fd3s

yeah those 6mm seals are tough to find, and then they dont like moisture so IF you find a set, they might be bad....



and 30,000miles is like weekends for 20years....



have fun!