Pilot Bearing Removal
06-17-2005, 09:10 AM
#2
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: My BIG ol TURBO-DIESEL
Posts: 5,181
If you dont have the correct puller (look on Mazdatrix) you can:
1. Pack the cavity full of grease and use a correctly sized punch to pop it out.
2. Place a slide hammer pin in the cavity, fill full of solder, attach slide hammer and pop it out.
3. CAREFULLY grind away using a carbide bit and break away with a chisel
1. Pack the cavity full of grease and use a correctly sized punch to pop it out.
2. Place a slide hammer pin in the cavity, fill full of solder, attach slide hammer and pop it out.
3. CAREFULLY grind away using a carbide bit and break away with a chisel
06-17-2005, 12:34 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Canyon Country, CALIFORNIA
Posts: 123
[quote name='phinsup' date='Jun 17 2005, 07:18 AM']Or buy the tool from mazdatrix and make your life really easy 
[/quote]
This tool kicks ***. It's worth the cost if you do a clutch at least once a year.
[snapback]726683[/snapback]
[/quote]
This tool kicks ***. It's worth the cost if you do a clutch at least once a year.
06-17-2005, 02:01 PM
#7
to infinity & beyond, me
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: santurce
Posts: 5,124
[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 17 2005, 11:08 AM']Toilet paper! You laugh but I'm serious. Get toilet paper and a punch. Soak the toilet paper in water and keep packing the cavity until it forces the pilot bearing out.
[/quote]
we use newspaper.
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we use newspaper.
06-23-2005, 08:40 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
[quote name='banzaitoyota' date='Jun 17 2005, 09:10 AM']If you dont have the correct puller (look on Mazdatrix) you can:
1. Pack the cavity full of grease and use a correctly sized punch to pop it out.
2. Place a slide hammer pin in the cavity, fill full of solder, attach slide hammer and pop it out.
3. CAREFULLY grind away using a carbide bit and break away with a chisel
[/quote]
Good luck with any of those methods I have never been able to get it out using any other way then a slide hammer.
Get any slide hammer, any size. If you get a big one (I rented one for use on trucks). Unbolt all the teeth except for 1 remaining. Put the single tooth into the end of hte eshaft. It will probably not catch the lip of the bearing as the tooth is probably too big. Oh well. Pry the tooth against the bearing race/needles. Smash the hammer forward. Most likely it will destroy the cage and the needles will pop out. Oh well you are replacing the bearing anyways. Do it again. Once the cage is removed and the needles gone you can usually find some sort of a lip on the casing of thebearing to hook onto with teh slide hammer.
Done. Took me 5 mins. Rental cost of free from canadian tire. Kinda rigged? yep! Did it get the job done? yes.
Oh as for getting hte flywheel unseated from it's taper fit. Vosko got it bang on using a large log of firewood. does not mar the surface and has enough weight/mass to do something. You can bang all you want with a 20 lb sledge but it's gonig to do F all other then ruin the surface of the flywheel.
1. Pack the cavity full of grease and use a correctly sized punch to pop it out.
2. Place a slide hammer pin in the cavity, fill full of solder, attach slide hammer and pop it out.
3. CAREFULLY grind away using a carbide bit and break away with a chisel
[snapback]726654[/snapback]
[/quote]
Good luck with any of those methods I have never been able to get it out using any other way then a slide hammer.
Get any slide hammer, any size. If you get a big one (I rented one for use on trucks). Unbolt all the teeth except for 1 remaining. Put the single tooth into the end of hte eshaft. It will probably not catch the lip of the bearing as the tooth is probably too big. Oh well. Pry the tooth against the bearing race/needles. Smash the hammer forward. Most likely it will destroy the cage and the needles will pop out. Oh well you are replacing the bearing anyways. Do it again. Once the cage is removed and the needles gone you can usually find some sort of a lip on the casing of thebearing to hook onto with teh slide hammer.
Done. Took me 5 mins. Rental cost of free from canadian tire. Kinda rigged? yep! Did it get the job done? yes.
Oh as for getting hte flywheel unseated from it's taper fit. Vosko got it bang on using a large log of firewood. does not mar the surface and has enough weight/mass to do something. You can bang all you want with a 20 lb sledge but it's gonig to do F all other then ruin the surface of the flywheel.
06-23-2005, 08:46 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
As for putting a new one in, don't waste your time buying a metric seal driver, find a deep socket that fits the eccentric shaft, and use it as a driver. Just tap it in like Happy...
I bought a metric seal driver kit from the tool guy, then before installing the bearing and seal, j9fd3s told me to try the socket trick, and I used a 14mm deep socket 3/8" drive, and it fit perfect into one of my spare eccentric shafts..
So I used the socket to drive the new one and the seal in, worked flawlessly
Good thing I bought the seal driver kit
I bought a metric seal driver kit from the tool guy, then before installing the bearing and seal, j9fd3s told me to try the socket trick, and I used a 14mm deep socket 3/8" drive, and it fit perfect into one of my spare eccentric shafts..
So I used the socket to drive the new one and the seal in, worked flawlessly
Good thing I bought the seal driver kit
06-23-2005, 09:21 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:46 AM']As for putting a new one in, don't waste your time buying a metric seal driver, find a deep socket that fits the eccentric shaft, and use it as a driver. Just tap it in like Happy...
I bought a metric seal driver kit from the tool guy, then before installing the bearing and seal, j9fd3s told me to try the socket trick, and I used a 14mm deep socket 3/8" drive, and it fit perfect into one of my spare eccentric shafts..
So I used the socket to drive the new one and the seal in, worked flawlessly
Good thing I bought the seal driver kit
[/quote]
Sucka! I used a craftsman 9/16" worked like a charm. Oh put your bearing in the freezer makes life easier. Put the bearing in fast or else you defeated the purpose of the freezer
I bought a metric seal driver kit from the tool guy, then before installing the bearing and seal, j9fd3s told me to try the socket trick, and I used a 14mm deep socket 3/8" drive, and it fit perfect into one of my spare eccentric shafts..
So I used the socket to drive the new one and the seal in, worked flawlessly
Good thing I bought the seal driver kit
[snapback]729177[/snapback]
[/quote]
Sucka! I used a craftsman 9/16" worked like a charm. Oh put your bearing in the freezer makes life easier. Put the bearing in fast or else you defeated the purpose of the freezer
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