Painting Engine
#11
I did one side of my car's brake calipers with high temp paint, the other side of the car with regualar, im waiting to see if there will be a difference.
I always wondered what they put in a $3 aeresol can to make it "high temp" paint?
I always wondered what they put in a $3 aeresol can to make it "high temp" paint?
#13
i've been using this stuff lately:
http://www.aervoe.com/aervoe/shopping/aerv...detail.asp?ID=1
it seems like it's much higher quality than anything else i've seen in a spray can. it even smells like "real" paint, and holds up to gas, oil, and brake cleaner a little bit better than the autobone stuff.
http://www.aervoe.com/aervoe/shopping/aerv...detail.asp?ID=1
it seems like it's much higher quality than anything else i've seen in a spray can. it even smells like "real" paint, and holds up to gas, oil, and brake cleaner a little bit better than the autobone stuff.
#14
[quote name='guitarjunkie28' date='Jun 8 2005, 10:45 AM']i've been using this stuff lately:
http://www.aervoe.com/aervoe/shopping/aerv...detail.asp?ID=1
it seems like it's much higher quality than anything else i've seen in a spray can. it even smells like "real" paint, and holds up to gas, oil, and brake cleaner a little bit better than the autobone stuff.
[/quote]
ide say, screw the paint, if you want your motor to actually look nice, first of all ungrease the whole damn thing, clean it with kero. or gasoline, then make it look like it came right out of the factory, i never had much luck with engine paint, i used to do muscle cars and ide always paint my mopar blocks orange or black, for some reason when they get dirty with grease or dirt, its very very hard to get off without screwing ur paint up, seems like it bakes onto the paint and actually becomes part of the paint?, idk but thats my suggestions anyways.. best of luck tho!, if you plan to paint it anyways, take some pics...
http://www.aervoe.com/aervoe/shopping/aerv...detail.asp?ID=1
it seems like it's much higher quality than anything else i've seen in a spray can. it even smells like "real" paint, and holds up to gas, oil, and brake cleaner a little bit better than the autobone stuff.
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[/quote]
ide say, screw the paint, if you want your motor to actually look nice, first of all ungrease the whole damn thing, clean it with kero. or gasoline, then make it look like it came right out of the factory, i never had much luck with engine paint, i used to do muscle cars and ide always paint my mopar blocks orange or black, for some reason when they get dirty with grease or dirt, its very very hard to get off without screwing ur paint up, seems like it bakes onto the paint and actually becomes part of the paint?, idk but thats my suggestions anyways.. best of luck tho!, if you plan to paint it anyways, take some pics...
#15
[quote name='hp238' date='Jun 8 2005, 07:08 PM']ide say, screw the paint, if you want your motor to actually look nice, first of all ungrease the whole damn thing, clean it with kero. or gasoline, then make it look like it came right out of the factory, i never had much luck with engine paint, i used to do muscle cars and ide always paint my mopar blocks orange or black, for some reason when they get dirty with grease or dirt, its very very hard to get off without screwing ur paint up, seems like it bakes onto the paint and actually becomes part of the paint?, idk but thats my suggestions anyways.. best of luck tho!, if you plan to paint it anyways, take some pics...
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that's the good part of the paint in the link. don't touch the motor for a few days after you paint, then don't clean it or touch it very much for a week or two once it's in the car. the heat helps cure it and it ends up being VERY resistant to chemicals.
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that's the good part of the paint in the link. don't touch the motor for a few days after you paint, then don't clean it or touch it very much for a week or two once it's in the car. the heat helps cure it and it ends up being VERY resistant to chemicals.
#16
[quote name='guitarjunkie28' date='Jun 8 2005, 07:55 PM']that's the good part of the paint in the link. don't touch the motor for a few days after you paint, then don't clean it or touch it very much for a week or two once it's in the car. the heat helps cure it and it ends up being VERY resistant to chemicals.
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tro tro, but maybe 90% of the people in here arent gonna wait a week so there motor to dry when it could be in the car asap and driving, heh, but thats a very good way to keep the **** from stickin to ur paint..
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tro tro, but maybe 90% of the people in here arent gonna wait a week so there motor to dry when it could be in the car asap and driving, heh, but thats a very good way to keep the **** from stickin to ur paint..
#17
[quote name='hp238' date='Jun 8 2005, 08:43 PM']tro tro, but maybe 90% of the people in here arent gonna wait a week so there motor to dry when it could be in the car asap and driving, heh, but thats a very good way to keep the **** from stickin to ur paint..
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you're right about that, but i'm the kinda guy who lets a motor sit for a week after it's built before any oil gets put into it. that's why i hardly ever have leaks
if you go the no-paint route, eastwood has crushed walnut shells that you can blast everything with --makes it come out nice if you're too lazy to scrub . the walnut shells will get mushy in water, so there's virtually no chance of engine damage if a few specs remain after the cleaning--not like sand or glass beads!
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you're right about that, but i'm the kinda guy who lets a motor sit for a week after it's built before any oil gets put into it. that's why i hardly ever have leaks
if you go the no-paint route, eastwood has crushed walnut shells that you can blast everything with --makes it come out nice if you're too lazy to scrub . the walnut shells will get mushy in water, so there's virtually no chance of engine damage if a few specs remain after the cleaning--not like sand or glass beads!