Here's what you do:



- Assemble the engine (or do your oil pan job) with the engine on a stand with it upside-down

- Using brake cleaner (as another poster mentioned) and a scotchbrite pad, clean the heck out of the surfaces on the bottom of the irons, front cover, and rotor housings as well as the oil pan (they have to be spin 'n span)

- Use Permatex Ultra Black (and nothing else); use a liberal amount of it

- Let rest and 'skin up' for atleast 2 to 3 hours prior to introducing fluids (such as oil)



This is my technique and I don't have any leaks whatsoever.



B

 

Thats pretty much what I did. Except I used "the right stuff".



I also put some on the threads when I put the mounts on. 1 week and all is still good, no leaks yet

 

The factory service manual says to , properly clean out the motor mount bolt holes and to apply sealant to the bolts themselves before assembly , If not cleanned properly the old sealant (in the holes ) can cause the plate to crack .

 

I don't like the idea of having silicone in the hole at all, I thought it had a pretty high coefficient of thermal expansion. Putting it in a closed space like the threads of a blind bolt hole seems like a recipe for disaster, considering the temps it can experience.



Now, if the shop manual says to put sealant on the bolts, what kind of sealant is it referring to?



Anyone care to comment on the thermal expansion properties of rtv?

 

It can only expand so much. The actual amount that is between the threads of the bolt and the block is very minimal. I can't see it causing any problems

 

mazda has their own sealant

 

I have a trick that I've been doing lately and I have notice it works really good. If your intrested let me know.

 

Im not having any problems, but im still interested

 

me too

 

me 3!!!!