Omfg!
#11
Here's what you do:
- Assemble the engine (or do your oil pan job) with the engine on a stand with it upside-down
- Using brake cleaner (as another poster mentioned) and a scotchbrite pad, clean the heck out of the surfaces on the bottom of the irons, front cover, and rotor housings as well as the oil pan (they have to be spin 'n span)
- Use Permatex Ultra Black (and nothing else); use a liberal amount of it
- Let rest and 'skin up' for atleast 2 to 3 hours prior to introducing fluids (such as oil)
This is my technique and I don't have any leaks whatsoever.
B
- Assemble the engine (or do your oil pan job) with the engine on a stand with it upside-down
- Using brake cleaner (as another poster mentioned) and a scotchbrite pad, clean the heck out of the surfaces on the bottom of the irons, front cover, and rotor housings as well as the oil pan (they have to be spin 'n span)
- Use Permatex Ultra Black (and nothing else); use a liberal amount of it
- Let rest and 'skin up' for atleast 2 to 3 hours prior to introducing fluids (such as oil)
This is my technique and I don't have any leaks whatsoever.
B
#13
The factory service manual says to , properly clean out the motor mount bolt holes and to apply sealant to the bolts themselves before assembly , If not cleanned properly the old sealant (in the holes ) can cause the plate to crack .
#14
Originally Posted by DuMaurier 7' date='Oct 25 2003, 09:32 PM
The factory service manual says to , properly clean out the motor mount bolt holes and to apply sealant to the bolts themselves before assembly , If not cleanned properly the old sealant (in the holes ) can cause the plate to crack .
Now, if the shop manual says to put sealant on the bolts, what kind of sealant is it referring to?
Anyone care to comment on the thermal expansion properties of rtv?
#18
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' date='Oct 27 2003, 11:16 AM
I have a trick that I've been doing lately and I have notice it works really good. If your intrested let me know.