While I haven't had any problems with the springs I do like your tip and will think about doing it before putting the trans back together.



I find your oil comment interesting also... and it makes 100% sence to me now that I've taken the transmission apart to see how the darn thing works (I'm a visual learner). Now that I know how a synchro works it's becomming clear to me that I should have given some thought to trying a different lube (had Mobil 1 in it) before tear down. I'm willing to bet if I had regular gear oil it would have shifted into 2nd alot easier. Am I correct in this thinking?



I'm going to have to think a while about grinding half the splines out of the sliders.



Last question is how the hell are you going to sell a house with a fuselage in it??



Thanks many times over



Cam

 

A super high film strength is not what is required. The only sliding fit that needs lube is the taildhaft bushing, and those are sloppy loose fit.



The synchro is a clutch disc. When a gear is changed the synchro must grab onto the cone and (for a down shift) spin the gear being selected up to the speed of the mainshaft (ground speed) so that when the splines on the slider engage the splines on the gear, there is zero difference in rotational speed between the two.



Further, all of the mainshaft gears are always engaged with the countershaft gears, and so the input shaft. So we have a tiny brass ring grabing a big nasty pile of gears and the big heavy clutch disc and accelerating it up 1000 RPM in the blink of an eye, and all you can do is cry about the price.



You beat the snot out of it for 40,000 miles and it starts to get tired, and its not oh Im sorry mr. synchro. I didn't mean to have beat you like a rented mule for 5 years straight. I didn't hear any of that. (another joke)



So look at all of those pieces (about 70 pounds of steel) not counting the clutch disc.



Every shift changes the speed of this heavy stuff instantly about 1,000 rpm day in, day out. So it really works pretty well.



When you ar not showing off, shift a bit slower. Giving more time for the synchro to slow or speed up the works before the splines touch their points.



So the oil is one thing. Understanding what is going on inside the box will convince you to move things a bit slower. Also if you get a chance to put in a lighter clutch cover and more important, a lighter disc, then you will reduce the rotrating mass being accelerated and lighten the load on the synchros.



This is the Richmond Gear trans.



Lynn E. Hanover

 

Mr. Hanover,

Back to the question of the thermal bypass on the stock oil coolers? Is it necessary or can it be disabled and also when using the Setrab oil cooler does it run a bypass or not? I've checked the Setrab oil coolers and I was very impressed with them and I'm pushing to getting one. My car is not a daily driver I use it strictly for racing I'm using the stock pump with the pressure set 120psi. I am currently running a turboII transmission that has been modified by a friend, don't know exactly what he did with it but you can't miss a shift even when quick shifting at 10,000rpms+ and yes I've done it many times. Hopefully next year I'll be able to afford the G-Force transmission that I want. Well that's all my questions on oil coolers. Thank you in advance for your insight.

 

Don't throw them away. Just weld them up and re-grind the shape back in. That's how I did it with my Richmond since they stoped making the parts for the tranny some time back. All you'll need would be a new set of sliders and it would be as good as new.

 

I have not actually looked at a stock cooler or for that matter a stock radiator.

We just gave them away. So I cannot describe a method of disabling the bypass.

You need that on the street car in cold weather. Unless it is cold where you race, I can see no need for it. I'm sure you can figure it out.



No bypass on the Setrabs.





Lynn E. Hanover

 

You could just run an inline thermostat correct?





btw, am I the only one that races to a thread when Mr. Hanover posts? Great stuff man keep it coming!

 

rfreeman27- You're not the only one that hunts for his posts.

 

I should have added that you need an oil (synthetic would be good) that has been specifically formulated for use in a synchronized transmission, and says so on the bottle.



Lynn E. Hanover

 

Ihave been drag racig for the last couple of years usuing the stock oil cooler with no problems, but I run at at about 480ps. My tuner is running 790ps and he and many other Japanese drag drivers weld two stock oil coolers together and make Y hoses for the oil lines. I have never really seen anyone switch to aftermarket oil coolers as the stock ones are so efficient. As far as transmissions, I personally use an OS Giken Crossmission, whaich changes first through fourth gear and the main shaft. But the best on the market in Japan and the US for the RX7 is the G Force if you are willing to spend the money.