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No One Removing The Ring Gear?

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Old May 12, 2004 | 03:18 PM
  #11  
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Did you take the gear off the shaft that drives the OMP, or take the whole shaft out? If the shaft is still there, it will serve the purpose of limiting the amount of oil that gets dumped there. Without it, enough oil gets dumped into the front cover and oil pan there that the front bearing will not get enough oil.
Old May 12, 2004 | 04:43 PM
  #12  
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Though I haven't experienced bearing failure, I can easily see how Adam's experiences could be true.



I tap the small feed hole in the front housing and then fit a small, hex headed set screw, using red loctite to secure it. This ensures all of the oil flowing through the upper dowels reaches the front stationary gear.
Old May 12, 2004 | 05:45 PM
  #13  
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i removed the shaft



can someone dig up a pic so i can see. I don't recal this feed hole
Old May 12, 2004 | 05:59 PM
  #14  
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well i dug up my Haynes manual



scanned this image.



could someone highlight what it is?



I see the built in oil line in the front cover casting.
Attached Thumbnails No One Removing The Ring Gear?-front_cover1.jpg  
Old May 12, 2004 | 06:35 PM
  #15  
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I do it Exactly how Scathcart does it. Allen head set screw and red lock-tite. Also, be sure to use a hardening gasket maker, not hylomar on the front cover. Hylomar will cause an oil leak at the feed hole.



Heres where the feed hole is on the front cover.
Attached Thumbnails No One Removing The Ring Gear?-post_81_1084402767.jpg  
Old May 12, 2004 | 08:32 PM
  #16  
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Aluminum weld the front cover to close the oil path off - opinions? I realize it's permanent, but oh well it's just one front cover. They aren't exactly rare.



I am going through this mod right now, I can get some pics...



Thoughts on welding or tap the front cover? Or who thinks the iron is better off to modify?
Old May 12, 2004 | 08:36 PM
  #17  
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Good stuff.



I haven't experienced problems but i can see now why that would cuase a problem. Learn something everyday.



Instead of taking the front cover off could you slide the shaft in from the bock off plate (since gear wouldn't have to be on)? If i remember correctly there is a retaining pin on the omp side so it should not slide too far in and the block off plate would keep it far enough in.



That would be many hours shorter.
Old May 13, 2004 | 02:14 AM
  #18  
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It's good that Info Is coming about. With my #200 Weber Jets, the lack of closing this hole would work against me, bad. Especially at lower RPM's.
Old May 13, 2004 | 06:58 AM
  #19  
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I removed everything...gear/shaft/omp. Would a common hardware store carry the set screw I need? I'm guessing I'd have to bring in the cover and find one that was a little too big and locktite it and jam in there.



Also, I don't recall a haynes manual for a FD...is this the same for an FD?



TIA.
Old May 13, 2004 | 10:22 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by DUB' date='May 13 2004, 07:58 AM
I removed everything...gear/shaft/omp. Would a common hardware store carry the set screw I need? I'm guessing I'd have to bring in the cover and find one that was a little too big and locktite it and jam in there.



Also, I don't recall a haynes manual for a FD...is this the same for an FD?



TIA.
You have to tap the hole to use a set screw. And yes, a hardware store will have the peoper set screw as long as you dont use some obscure size when you tap it.



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