No One Removing The Ring Gear?
05-13-2004, 10:59 AM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 22
looks like I'm breaking out the JBweld for this one! hahaha, that stuff's great.
For the guys w/o a CAS...
How about eliminating that cylindrical gear on the e-shaft? My guess would be there is no reason to eliminate it. And doing so would cause more problems than it's worth. I was just going to keep it to act as a spacer.
Has anyone fooled around with this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
For the guys w/o a CAS...
How about eliminating that cylindrical gear on the e-shaft? My guess would be there is no reason to eliminate it. And doing so would cause more problems than it's worth. I was just going to keep it to act as a spacer.
Has anyone fooled around with this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
05-13-2004, 11:12 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 568
Originally Posted by rx7turbo1' date='May 13 2004, 11:59 AM
looks like I'm breaking out the JBweld for this one! hahaha, that stuff's great.
For the guys w/o a CAS...
How about eliminating that cylindrical gear on the e-shaft? My guess would be there is no reason to eliminate it. And doing so would cause more problems than it's worth. I was just going to keep it to act as a spacer.
Has anyone fooled around with this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
For the guys w/o a CAS...
How about eliminating that cylindrical gear on the e-shaft? My guess would be there is no reason to eliminate it. And doing so would cause more problems than it's worth. I was just going to keep it to act as a spacer.
Has anyone fooled around with this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
thanks buddy!
05-13-2004, 11:20 AM
#24
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 2,763
Originally Posted by rx7turbo1' date='May 13 2004, 11:59 AM
looks like I'm breaking out the JBweld for this one! hahaha, that stuff's great.
For the guys w/o a CAS...
How about eliminating that cylindrical gear on the e-shaft? My guess would be there is no reason to eliminate it. And doing so would cause more problems than it's worth. I was just going to keep it to act as a spacer.
Has anyone fooled around with this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
For the guys w/o a CAS...
How about eliminating that cylindrical gear on the e-shaft? My guess would be there is no reason to eliminate it. And doing so would cause more problems than it's worth. I was just going to keep it to act as a spacer.
Has anyone fooled around with this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
Why dont you need a CAS?
05-13-2004, 12:50 PM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 22
mazdaspeed7, I agree the gear needs to stay.
Electromotive uses the magnetic trigger wheel as a crank angle sensor. Muahaha!
JBweld can easily hold up to this task! Read the testimonials! heh
http://www.jbweld.net/testimonials.html
Electromotive uses the magnetic trigger wheel as a crank angle sensor. Muahaha!
JBweld can easily hold up to this task! Read the testimonials! heh
http://www.jbweld.net/testimonials.html
05-13-2004, 01:12 PM
#26
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 2,763
Originally Posted by rx7turbo1' date='May 13 2004, 01:50 PM
mazdaspeed7, I agree the gear needs to stay.
Electromotive uses the magnetic trigger wheel as a crank angle sensor. Muahaha!
JBweld can easily hold up to this task! Read the testimonials! heh
http://www.jbweld.net/testimonials.html
Electromotive uses the magnetic trigger wheel as a crank angle sensor. Muahaha!
JBweld can easily hold up to this task! Read the testimonials! heh
http://www.jbweld.net/testimonials.html
05-24-2004, 08:25 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 568
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed7' date='May 12 2004, 10:44 AM
WARNING!!!!
To everyone who removes the drive for the OMP, be SURE to block off the oil feed at the block or the front cover flange. Its the little hole in the gasket area by the CAS. Failure to do so will result in spun front main bearings. It took me 3 bearings in 15k miles to figure that out.
To everyone who removes the drive for the OMP, be SURE to block off the oil feed at the block or the front cover flange. Its the little hole in the gasket area by the CAS. Failure to do so will result in spun front main bearings. It took me 3 bearings in 15k miles to figure that out.
05-24-2004, 09:51 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 564
If you are gonna block that hole, you are better off to block it in the iron, as if the seal goes out between the front cover and the iron, it will still leak and you will lose oil pressure, especially for those people using sealer with no front gasket, but even with the gasket there, there is a good chance of leak becuase now the passage is dead headed..Also the cast Iron will hold the thread/set screw better than front cover that is aluminium, I use #10/24x1/4 set screw and tap...Max
05-24-2004, 02:34 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
Originally Posted by Maxt' date='May 24 2004, 06:51 AM
there is a good chance of leak becuase now the passage is dead headed..
I just tapped mine today in the front cover, I wish this comment was posted sooner.
What can I do now to help prevent this from happening without tapping the iron?