ArmyOfOne

Thank you very much!

thafox

sorry to revive this post but are you going to dyno it...because i really want to know how much power you get from a 6-port bp

Ronny_

Well I hope to make it to the dyno,I`ge got a water brake available, but it`s the kind you brake the engine at different rpm,read out the brake torque and calculate how much power it is delivering at that rpm. I will have to do that for lets say each 500 rpm to be able to draw the hk and torque curve. I`m hoping on between 250-280 hk at the flywheel.

This engine is going into VW beetle running national A rallycross, so how should it be braked inn?

I`ll be posting more pics of the engine and car as the project is envolving..

Cheers

ronny

BDC

Good luck with it, Ronny. Looks like a worthwhile project. Let us know how it turns out!



B

RETed

It's required for a real BP.

You don't have to do it, but the BP only can be cut so wide.

If you're going to go BP, you might as well all-out and cut the bevel.

Ronny looks like he knows what he's doing on the BP.

I haven't seen BP's on a 6-port so it's interesting to hear the results if you can post them!







-Ted

Ronny

I`m putting the engine together tomorrow. I`ve made the bridge port a bit bigger than it`s on the pics, and I did a extreme street port on the primaries.I`ll post some more pics of it and the intake manifold when it`s done (in a week or so).

I`m going to use Megasquirt `n edis for fuel/spark control,so I wont be able to run split ignition,but I will get coil per plug setup. Firing both the lead and trade plug at the same time. Any thought about tis setup?

I`m running Megasquirt (fuel only) on my t2, and it works very well.

I hope to have it ready for the dyno in 1 - 1 1/2 month.

The engine is going into a vw beetle which has the engine in the back of the car, so I`ll have to make a custom ex. system.

How long should I make the header pipes before they collect to one?

I`m going to use 2 x 2" to 1 2,5" pipe with one large 2,5" silencer.

I know it`s gona be loud, but the noice limit is 110 db for this class, so I think it will do.

I`m going to do the brake in in a waterbrake dyno, so I could need some advices on to do that. I`ll post the dyno sheets after it`s done, and if it`s a success, I`ve made some templates of the ports it`s got.

Any help/thoughts appreciated.



Cheers

Ronny

Lynn E. Hanover

Torque X RPM / 5252 = HP



So long as one bridge or the other can support almost all of the loose corner end of the apex, you can get away with quite a narrow bridge on the solid end. Super glue the corner onto the apex seal before you start the build, and you can load it in any way around. The center iron is a good place to leave a wide bridge because the material is already thinner there.



So load the apex seals with the loose corner piece against the center iron. Wear latex gloves. Gluing a corner piece to your thumb will slow down the build.



As you can see, the loose corner needs to be supported very well. On the end housings the bridge can be narrow to the point that it just supports the leading end of the side seal. However, keep in mind that the less material there is on the face of the bridge, the quicker it wears. Also, the narrower the bridge the more likely it is that it may crack and ruin the housing.



Use cheap name brand oil for the break in. Run three hours at 1800 to 2000 RPM, no load at all.

Change oil and filter. I use RedLine 40wt racing oil after break in.



Lynn E. Hanover

Lynn E. Hanover

Leading and trailing at once is just fine. You are not looking for good emissions readings, and the HP difference is not a factor in a high RPM situation.



The primaries should be about 12" for a short system.



Break in (there are many opinions on this) no load at a fast idle for three hours.



Do this in the car with a garden hose to squirt on the radiator and the oil coolers, to control temperatures, just to save dyno time. Run cheap oil in the engine and RedLine synthetic two cycle oil in the fuel 1 1/2 oz. per gallon for break in.



1 oz. per gallon for racing.



On start up, be sure that you have and maintain coolant flow. Keep a hand on the water outlet at the top of the water pump to be sure it starts to get hot within a minute of start up. And that it satys hot during the first few minutes of the first run. Check water level often. Make sure you get all of the air out of the coolant.



Use two EGT probes in the primaries about three inches from the port. Stay below 1600 degrees always. In fact that should be the max ever. and shoot for 1550 degrees. Use the probe that reads the highest to control your tuning. This is well rich of peak EGT. Just never go to peak EGT.



Water and oil under 180 degrees. The good oil in the fuel and sump, and no over revs. The engine will last for ever.



Lynn E. Hanover

Ronny

12" for the primary tube isn`t that a bit short for a bp engine? read some where that bp engines need long primary tubes for the best performance or something like that..?What effect will short/long header have on the engine?



Cheers

Ronny

Lynn E. Hanover

Yes 12" is short. But the choices I see are distance from flange to collector: 12"/ 24"/96 to 98" or 102". The first two should have the distance from the collector to the muffler in the form of a long megaphone. But there is just no room.



So if the engine is mounted in the rear of a VW Beetle, I'm thinking a short system is all that there would be room for. Actually, if the engine could go up to say 9,300, I would go shorter, maybe 10" to 11". I think you would want lightened rotors and crank for that. Hardened gears etc. No longer a low bucks motor.



I have no access to the rules, so I don't know how inventive he can get about running exhaust tubing all over the rear of the car. If I could squeeze in a 24" primary system, and a bit of a megaphone before the muffler I would want to try that first. A muffler big enough to do the job, even with 3" in and out will not fit in a desk drawer. It is just short on space. A 24" system would be better for mid range, but even in a stock weight VW it would be wheelspin city. I put a Corvair engine in a VW with a powerglide trans. I drove it around the block one time. I then filled my Navy sea bag full of pea gravel and put it in the trunk so the front tires would stay on the ground. It was wheel spin limited anywhere but top speed in a straight line.



On my race car I have a 24" primary to the collector, and a 20" megaphone to a 4" ID muffler and out through the passenger door sill in 4". Because I have room for it. About 100 DB. Sounds good, and runs good.



A few years back, the national champion had 11" primaries when I was still running a 102" system. But I am getting smarter now.



Lynn E. Hanover