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Motor Is Going In This Weekend

Old Oct 10, 2003 | 08:16 PM
  #21  
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Quick and easy way to get flywheel off:



1.Put nut back on a few thread to stop flywheel bounching off your toes. (one learns from one's mistakes...)



2. Locate woodruff key slot on flywheel and mark or mentally note opposite the slot on the outer edge of flywheel.



3. Get big hammer and give that spot on the outside of the flywheel one bloody hard crack.



Pops off every time for me.
Old Oct 11, 2003 | 07:00 AM
  #22  
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I agree with Andy, loosen the nut, make sure the engine is in a steady position, and whack the edge of the surface of the flywheel taking care not to whack the starter teeth. Be prepared, hitting these things will ring your ears like the church bells in Notre Dame. If it does not break loose, get a bigger hammer, I have seen the boys in Okinawa break out the 16 lbs sledge on two of the engines we broke down.
Old Oct 11, 2003 | 09:24 AM
  #23  
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i use a chunk of firewood works like a champ it sorta vibrates the flywheel when you smack it so it pops right off
Old Oct 11, 2003 | 01:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by vosko' date='Oct 11 2003, 06:24 AM
i use a chunk of firewood works like a champ it sorta vibrates the flywheel when you smack it so it pops right off
yah when it starts to ring its loose



mike
Old Oct 11, 2003 | 01:25 PM
  #25  
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Was it hard for you to get the E-shaft bolt off? That is the only think that has halted my prgress. Flywheel was a snap!
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 10:48 AM
  #26  
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I got the flywheel off like Penagru said. Its resurfaced and is **** now.



I got the motor out. I left the A/C compressor in the car...what a ******* pain in the ***. The only other thing that was kinda hard was getting the motor far enough foward that the input shaft would come out.



Now the bad news. 1 stud on the exh. manifold that holds it to the block, was cross threaded and stripped out...it broke. EVERY ******* stud and that holds the turbos to the exh. manifold were fucked beyond repair. And my J-spec wiring harness doesn't fit on a US motor. There are 3 plugs that are missing. I think 2 are for the ACV? and 1 is for the little motor underneath the UIM between the trhottle body and the temp sensor.



Looks like Ray Crowe at Malloy is gonna be getting some business on monday morning...............
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 12:10 PM
  #27  
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yah the jdm cars dont have those 3 things, it will still run fine and pass smog out the tailpipe without em.



mike
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 03:07 PM
  #28  
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Are you able to drill and easy-out 'em? Two studs broke on mine and I replaced them with S4 or earlier studs.
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 03:38 PM
  #29  
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The studs screwed out of the manifold and the studs are fucked. Not even rethreadable, if thats a word.



I'm gonna try one local place tomorrow morning to get the studs, or I'll order them from Malloy.



This thing kicked my ***
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 03:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Oct 12 2003, 12:10 PM
yah the jdm cars dont have those 3 things, it will still run fine and pass smog out the tailpipe without em.



mike
So it won't set any lights, and the car will run O.K.? Its missing 2 of the 3 plugs that go to the piece of **** ACV on the LIM and 1 plug that goes to the sensor on the UIM between the temp sensor and throttlebody.



Mike, you Rule.

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