Well while we are at it ...



Who has a Part Number for a 6" long acorn carbide burr?



Its the last thing I need to get started



any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

my compressor is inteh basement so i hear no noise at all from that

 

my cornwell tool guy is the only tool man that has been able to find the long set of bits, unfortunately they arent from cornwell and i dont have a part # . hope that at least points ya in the right direction.

 

sweet, our water table is 6' down = no basements

 

There are cheap flex shaft setups available. Use a small drill press to power it. Chucks 1/4" and 1/8" shanks.



The area available to port are outlined by the track of the leading end of the side seal, on the outer part of the port. The track of the outer oil scraper controls the inner limit of the port. That leaves you with the closing point to draw in from data or a pattern or whatever.



See helpfull picture showing leading and trailing end tracks for the side seal.



In this picture, the corner seal sits centered on the bridge.





Lynn E. Hanover

 

I prefer air die grinders. The key is to drop the pressure down for better control. The air version stays a lot cooler, hell it gets almost freezing cold sometimes. Typically, it's a lot more compact than most electric die grinders unless to have that flex shaft attachement.



Dremels are only used for very fine work, like bridgeporting.



I've used a Makita 1/4" electric die grinder, and it took some getting used to. Very small burrs (like 3mm round ball) on very long shafts induce a lot of nasty vibrations in the tool - maybe some of the more expensive ones have better dampening? The air tool doesn't normally have this problem. Variable speed is nice, but most electric ones only have on/off switches. I've gotten good enough with the air version to be able to control speed.





-Ted

 

I like to use the air die grinder in the beginning and sometimes i will finish with my dremel. The air die grinder with a carbide burr chews cast iron real fast. You have to be careful with the air stuff since its hard to modulate if your not use to it, where as a dremel is variable speed and easier to control.

 

Just depends on what you like and what you feel more comfortable with. I don't like turning 300-500 dollars plates/housing into worthless metal.

 

is it really beneficial to make the port drag out that far at he top, i imagine it wouldnt flow that much more but would increase amount of overlap greatly...

 

You talking intake or exhaust port?



If you're talking intake port, going "up" does not increase overlap.



If you're talking exhaust port, going "up" does increase overlap.







-Ted