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Housing Lapping question

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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #11  
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From: newark new jersey
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='787641' date='Dec 17 2005, 05:13 PM

I have them ground, not lapped. I don't do anything until they get to about .006" deep. Then tell the operator to take it down until the line is just visible. So about .0055" off on the worst piece of iron. You can do that twice and then mix in a center iron that has not been cut and race a few more years.



Paul Yaw grinds them first, and then laps them to get the finish he wants. A good idea but more money.



If you race, or just use a lot of engine on the street, add a bit of premix for those hard weekends. The irons and side seals will just about stop wearing. Also change the oil at least every 2,000 miles. Real good Oil filters only go down to about 9 microns, and there is some nasty looking stuff below 9 microns (9 millionths of a meter) still in there.



Lynn E. Hanover
thanks for the info
Old Dec 24, 2005 | 10:51 PM
  #12  
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Excellent info. Thing that gets me is everyone goes on about lapping when the irons don't appear to be lapped from the factory in the first place. I see markings on them all the time that are indicative of blancher grinding not lapping. I'll be taking mine to work and grinding them on the hydraulic surface grinder then stone them to about 320 grit then lapping compound on this plate we use for lapping punches and dies for fein blank. Should take maybe 4hrs. Racing beats catalog lists all the does and don'ts for seal groove depths housing thickness,iron thickness etc...
Old Dec 25, 2005 | 10:34 AM
  #13  
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Just to clarify,I'm only lapping them because I have the means readily available. As long as you get a good finish on the wet grinder they should be fine. If you look at a worn iron the center where the seals don't touch still has the blancher grinding marks. There rest is shiny simply from seals wearing it.(At least that's what it looks like to me)



Brent
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