Dry Sump Setups
01-01-2012, 09:59 AM
#4
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Location: Indiana
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01-06-2012, 11:05 PM
#6
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Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
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Lynn do you have a diagram for using the stock oil pump for pressure and a high volume pump for scavenging?
I do not.
I have done that on a Triumph GT-6 and a Fiat using the GT-6 oil pump as a scaveng pump.
I will draw up a system for you and post it here.
Lynn E. Hanover.
I do not.
I have done that on a Triumph GT-6 and a Fiat using the GT-6 oil pump as a scaveng pump.
I will draw up a system for you and post it here.
Lynn E. Hanover.
01-07-2012, 09:53 AM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Ohio (Hebron) Zephyrhills Fla.
Posts: 1,322
OK, there are no mysteries about dry sump oil systems.
Why go to the trouble? For normal or even above normal (side loaded) driving there is little to be
gained by running a dry sump. The object is to have an oiling system that can deliver full oil
pressure no matter the G load on the vehicle. So, as in drag racing or hill climbs where the oil
tends to stay piled up in the rear of the engine, or in auto cross or time trials where side loads
keep uncovering the oil pick up.
So the dry sump system avoids the problem by storing the spent oil in a tall small diameter tank
A large diameter hose feeds oil to the pressure pump 100% of the time, and the only dynamic
situation where the oil supply can be cut off is when the vehicle is inverted.
Another feature of the dry sump system is that (in the case of the rotary) a flat plate replaces
the stock oil pan and the engine can be moved closer to the ground for better handling.
In a case where the stock pump must be used, some ground clearance is lost because a fitting
must be fitted to the flat plate to supply oil to the stock pump. That is an easy matter. A fitting is
fabricated that matches the pattern of the flange on the stock oil pickup tube. You could even use
the stock pickup tube but it is a frail looking piece and may not survive being in the wind and
gravel below the engine. In any case I would mount a chunk of metal in front of the fitting to
protect it from damage.
So the tall thin tank can be a spent fire extinguisher bottle. Aluminum if you can TIG weld
or steel if you can gas weld. The hose can be no smaller than dash 12, but dash 16 would be
better.
As in the drawing the oil supply fitting would just pass oil through the pan/plate through holes
that look just like the stock oil pickup flange. Two stock like gaskets and a bit longer bolts
drilled and safety wired.
To remove oil from the engine the are many ways and methods. You can bore through one leg
of either rotor housing. TIG a dash 12 AN fitting in place and die grind the end of the fitting
the clear the pan by about 3/8”. You can weld a dash 12 steel fitting over a hole in the
pan/plate near the rear of the engine.
The scavenge pump should be at least twice the displacement of the pressure pump. The
scavenge pump will be removing all of the spent oil and lots of crank case gasses.
You can spin up a smaller pump faster to gain this advantage.
I have two of my three oil coolers in the scavenge run to the tank. You can use a course wire
filter in front of the scavenge pump to keep the big lumps out of it.
Lynn E. Hanover
Why go to the trouble? For normal or even above normal (side loaded) driving there is little to be
gained by running a dry sump. The object is to have an oiling system that can deliver full oil
pressure no matter the G load on the vehicle. So, as in drag racing or hill climbs where the oil
tends to stay piled up in the rear of the engine, or in auto cross or time trials where side loads
keep uncovering the oil pick up.
So the dry sump system avoids the problem by storing the spent oil in a tall small diameter tank
A large diameter hose feeds oil to the pressure pump 100% of the time, and the only dynamic
situation where the oil supply can be cut off is when the vehicle is inverted.
Another feature of the dry sump system is that (in the case of the rotary) a flat plate replaces
the stock oil pan and the engine can be moved closer to the ground for better handling.
In a case where the stock pump must be used, some ground clearance is lost because a fitting
must be fitted to the flat plate to supply oil to the stock pump. That is an easy matter. A fitting is
fabricated that matches the pattern of the flange on the stock oil pickup tube. You could even use
the stock pickup tube but it is a frail looking piece and may not survive being in the wind and
gravel below the engine. In any case I would mount a chunk of metal in front of the fitting to
protect it from damage.
So the tall thin tank can be a spent fire extinguisher bottle. Aluminum if you can TIG weld
or steel if you can gas weld. The hose can be no smaller than dash 12, but dash 16 would be
better.
As in the drawing the oil supply fitting would just pass oil through the pan/plate through holes
that look just like the stock oil pickup flange. Two stock like gaskets and a bit longer bolts
drilled and safety wired.
To remove oil from the engine the are many ways and methods. You can bore through one leg
of either rotor housing. TIG a dash 12 AN fitting in place and die grind the end of the fitting
the clear the pan by about 3/8”. You can weld a dash 12 steel fitting over a hole in the
pan/plate near the rear of the engine.
The scavenge pump should be at least twice the displacement of the pressure pump. The
scavenge pump will be removing all of the spent oil and lots of crank case gasses.
You can spin up a smaller pump faster to gain this advantage.
I have two of my three oil coolers in the scavenge run to the tank. You can use a course wire
filter in front of the scavenge pump to keep the big lumps out of it.
Lynn E. Hanover
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