Been doing some searches on dry sumps and it appears a couple of the threads are no longer available? Does anyone have cached versions? Or maybe some of the information could be reposted?

Not sure, got a link?

I have built and worked on dozens of dry sump systems.



Here is a line drawing of a typical system on a Mazda engine.



Lynn E. Hanover[





attachment=48052:LargeDrysump.jpg]

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/Oil...oiling+systems



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/Thr...ys-t73703.html

Lynn do you have a diagram for using the stock oil pump for pressure and a high volume pump for scavenging?

Lynn do you have a diagram for using the stock oil pump for pressure and a high volume pump for scavenging?





I do not.



I have done that on a Triumph GT-6 and a Fiat using the GT-6 oil pump as a scaveng pump.



I will draw up a system for you and post it here.



Lynn E. Hanover.

OK, there are no mysteries about dry sump oil systems.





Why go to the trouble? For normal or even above normal (side loaded) driving there is little to be

gained by running a dry sump. The object is to have an oiling system that can deliver full oil

pressure no matter the G load on the vehicle. So, as in drag racing or hill climbs where the oil

tends to stay piled up in the rear of the engine, or in auto cross or time trials where side loads

keep uncovering the oil pick up.





So the dry sump system avoids the problem by storing the spent oil in a tall small diameter tank

A large diameter hose feeds oil to the pressure pump 100% of the time, and the only dynamic

situation where the oil supply can be cut off is when the vehicle is inverted.





Another feature of the dry sump system is that (in the case of the rotary) a flat plate replaces

the stock oil pan and the engine can be moved closer to the ground for better handling.



In a case where the stock pump must be used, some ground clearance is lost because a fitting

must be fitted to the flat plate to supply oil to the stock pump. That is an easy matter. A fitting is

fabricated that matches the pattern of the flange on the stock oil pickup tube. You could even use

the stock pickup tube but it is a frail looking piece and may not survive being in the wind and

gravel below the engine. In any case I would mount a chunk of metal in front of the fitting to

protect it from damage.





So the tall thin tank can be a spent fire extinguisher bottle. Aluminum if you can TIG weld

or steel if you can gas weld. The hose can be no smaller than dash 12, but dash 16 would be

better.





As in the drawing the oil supply fitting would just pass oil through the pan/plate through holes

that look just like the stock oil pickup flange. Two stock like gaskets and a bit longer bolts

drilled and safety wired.



To remove oil from the engine the are many ways and methods. You can bore through one leg

of either rotor housing. TIG a dash 12 AN fitting in place and die grind the end of the fitting

the clear the pan by about 3/8”. You can weld a dash 12 steel fitting over a hole in the

pan/plate near the rear of the engine.





The scavenge pump should be at least twice the displacement of the pressure pump. The

scavenge pump will be removing all of the spent oil and lots of crank case gasses.

You can spin up a smaller pump faster to gain this advantage.





I have two of my three oil coolers in the scavenge run to the tank. You can use a course wire

filter in front of the scavenge pump to keep the big lumps out of it.





Lynn E. Hanover