sen2two

so what do you suggest i do about the suction gallery that feeds to the external oil pump...? theres no possible room to tap it and put any size fitting...



maybe these 2 options?

yallgotboost

The 2 ports in blue are not suction they are the presure side of the pump

yallgotboost

If your going with a flat pan you could or out the feed hole and two bolt holes in the plate so you could bolt and aluminum block with a -12 oring fitting to the stock oil pickup.



Why dont you just buy a used nascar pump on ebay?? prob be cheaper in the long run



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Stage-Dry...sspagenameZWDVW



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Ford-...sspagenameZWDVW

Lynn E. Hanover

I need to state outright, that I have never seen a Renesis engine up close. Never seen the inside of one outside of pictures. However the oiling system should not be hard to trace, so as to answer some of your questions. Put the iron in the cleaning tank and stick the hose in a few holes to see where the solvent comes out. Or out in the back yard with a garden hose.



Further, there are several ways to build a dry sumped engine, and I have detailed several methods that have worked for me. Starting with the crude homebuilt system with the stock pump used as the pressure pump, and a single external home made scavenge pump, pulling out spent oil through a modified front cover.



Also there are pictures of a real Mandeville / Drummond front cover with a short and long scavenge pickup tube. The other front cover is modified to use the oil out passages as the front scavenge pickup.

The upper hole is plugged with a hex socket pipe plug. That land area must remain flat, and a thick washer in steel or aluminum is pinned, or epoxied, or welded to that land in order to plug the normal bath of oil leaving the front iron and entering the front cover. This is the junction on older engines that blows out the "O" ring and looses oil pressure. I am told thatt this has been cured by a steel gasket, and that may be used if you like. But the cover side of this junction must be plugged in every case. This modified cover has the bottom of this relief valve gallery cut open, and radiused to become the front scavenge pickup. The single or double scavenge pump will pull spent oil off of the flat plate oil pan through that cut open gallery. The stock oil pickup opening below the pump will be closed by a small gasket and two screws through the flat plate



Below that is the next hole to plug and that was the relief hole for the front oil pressure relief valve that never opens. That valve is set at 140 pounds, and is there to protect the oil cooler from cold start over pressure. It never opens fast enough, and the "O" ring blows out. You weld this hole shut (TIG).



If you are very good at tapping holes, you can tap the hole into the pressure gallery in front of the "O" ring pocket and plug that with a hex socket pipe plug. Oil from the pump goes past this point and out through the drivers side of the iron.



The front cover with two pickups is used only for all out racing where the external dry sump pump has at least three segments. One pressure, and two scavenge.



The modified front cover is for a home built single or dual scavenge pump where the stock pump is retained for oil pressure. The stock pump must be fed oil from the reserve tank by a welded or brazed on fitting or pipe over a drilled hole through the suction gallery into the pump. Or, the flat pan can have a set of holes that match the mounting holes in the iron for the stock pickup. Then you match those holes through the flat plate pan and build up a oval tube and fitting that bolts onto the pan bottom with the stock pickup bolt holes. This makes the ground clearance less by the thickness of this built up fitting.

It can be less than an inch thick.



You dont use both on one engine. You dont need both front cover styles on one engine.



With a single scaveng pickup and a level engine or stock angle engine I would have the scavenge pickup in the rear. If you have a dual scavenge pump or a real dry sump pump, then use both pickups.



If there is no way to convert the rear outside oil pressure adaptor stand gallery to a scavenge gallery, because there is none, drill through a leg on the rear rotor housing and install a dash 10 or 12 bulkhead fitting for your scavenge pickup.



If you use the stock pump, you must retain the stock oil pressure relief valve.



In this picture you see two versions of the through the plate oil supply tube. In the one you see an offset to avoid one of the mounting holes. In the second version, the fitting includes the mounting bolt by installing a tube through the fitting to support the tube and seal the bolt hole. Either can be built by ovaling a one inch steel tube. This drawing is for building wet sump systems for airplanes.

Lynn E. Hanover

Here is the front iron with a tube or fitting option. The tube end can be ovaled to give more room. Those are not brass plugs. They are anodized steel "Core Support Plugs". The water voids inside the irons are formed by strange looking shapes in core sand. A resin and sand mixture molded in permanent dies and set into the sand mold for the front iron (every iron).



The iron is poured into the mold and the sand "core" leaves a void in the iron for coolant. The heat destroys the resin and the sand is shaken out of the iron. The support legs that held the core mold in place leave behind those holes. A milling machine bores the holes bigger to get a smooth surface, and those steel plugs are pressed into the iron to seal in the coolant.



In the event that plain water is left in the engine during a freeze, the core support plugs may be forced out of their holes by the expanding ice. So, many old timers call them "Freeze Plugs" Thinking that they are designed to save the block from ice damage. But this popular term is not accurate. And now you know.



Lynn E. Hanover