is there a way to fab up your own dry sump?



whats needed? anyone here done it?

there are a few good write ups on dry sumps https://www.nopistons.com/forums/Oil-System...=oiling+systems

A lot of good info in that thread from Lynn also try https://www.nopistons.com/forums/Thread-Dry...Sys-t73703.html









https://www.nopistons.com/forums/post-a43593-.html

You could use the stock pump for oil pressure, and mount an external pump for scavenge. You fall a bit short of a flat bottom but you can get close. If you can braze cast iron you can do it, and have the flat bottom.



You drill through the suction gallery below the pump. Have the pump and sprocket in place when you do this so there is no problem later with clearance. Then smooth up the opening inside, and braze on a dash 12 steel tube fitting. Drill through the front cover close to the tube fitting location. Install a bulkhead 90 through the cover. Make up a hose to fit between the two fittings. Now the storage tank bottom gets a dash 12 or bigger fitting for you supply hose to the front cover. There is you oil supply. You can seal the bottom of the suction gallery with a hex drive pipe plug, or a thick gasket held on by the flat plate. You can even drill two holes and use screws to hold the gasket in place.



The scavenge pump can be anything with a big volume per revolution. The Chrysler big angine pumps are large displacement Gerotor pumps. You can make a pump from three blocks of aluminum and a lathe.



Bore a block to fit the ring OD, then face it for about .008 clearance. In one remaining block you drill two holes for pipe to tube fittings in dash 12. The front block depends on the shaft length available on the stock part. If there is enough length, you need a bearing and a seal to press into a hole. A smaller hole just big enough for the shaft. "O" ring grooves in the end blocks. Drill and tap the sides of the blocks for mounting brackets. Add a pulley to turn the pump about 70% of engine speed. There is you scavenge pump. Pull the oil from the center through a rotor housing leg and another bulkhead fitting.



Oil from the scaveng pump can go through a cooler and a filter to the storage tank.



Lynn E. Hanover

thanks!

few questions...i got these pics from old dry sump threads



1. can i weld both holes closed or should i just plug the top one like stated. and whats the reason for radiasing the bottom part?



2. and just where am i supposed to drill/tap/plug on the front plate. what do i do about the stock oil pickup opening? just leave it since it will not be used?



3. can these scavenge tubes in the second pic be made from aluminum fuel line? i could just get some from jegs in -10 and weld them to the front cover where the -10 an fitting will be coming out of the front cover.









also, i will be doing this on the renesis, and there is no outlet for oil on the driver side rear plate like earlier 13b/12a's. should i just remove the stock oil pressure regulator also, this will not be used either right?



and on the front cover, the top oil outlet (normally what feeds the turbo oil on a stock TII) is not there either.

1. you can weld both hold the top hole i would cut back some of the cover so the weld will clear the iron.



2.Look at the picture i attached for what to drill/tap. Stock oil pump you dont have to do anything with other then plug the outlet hole in the iron if the brass plug is drilled out.

ok...i drew this up in paint so i can ask my question more clearly... after reading my post, it didnt make much sense to me.



the picture is the way i view a dry sump working witht the stock oil pump and an external oil pump. with just a flat piece of metal for a "pan".





is there anything im missing in my picture? anything wrong?



oh, and i plan on adding a remote oil filter, and not using the oil filter stand. maybe tapping the rear iron with a fitting and plugging the second hole.

I fixed your drawing you cant use the stock pump for scavenge pump.

i dont see a picture???

oh...i see it now, crappy old computer...