Assembling Longbock (almost Done)

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06-02-2004, 10:55 PM

#11

j9fd3s

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Join Date: May 2002

Location: California

Posts: 22,465

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jun 2 2004, 06:28 PM

If you really want to do it right, cut out the stud hole portion of the old pump to cover gasket and use them as the shims. All those things do is replicate the compressed gasket thickness.

I have never found a down side to not using anything. Not a factor.

Lynn E. Hanover

they actually cast em into the engine for the 89-91's then they stopped, cause they couldnt get the remans to leak without that thing to leave out

06-03-2004, 02:24 AM

#12

Jeff20B

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Join Date: Nov 2001

Posts: 2,284

The shims are paper-thin. Banzai helped me out once when I lost mine.

06-03-2004, 07:49 AM

#13

83turbo

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Join Date: Nov 2003

Posts: 480

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Jun 2 2004, 11:24 PM

The shims are paper-thin. Banzai helped me out once when I lost mine.

And they're steel too. Those copper ones are actually gaskets - probably for the metering pump lines?

06-05-2004, 10:53 AM

#14

RotaryRocket219

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Join Date: Oct 2002

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Quote:

Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Jun 2 2004, 06:18 PM

they are in the bag with the water pump housing to block gasket

I got my rebuild kit from Atkins..I dont see them.

-Marc

06-05-2004, 10:59 AM

#15

RotaryRocket219

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Quote:

Originally Posted by scathcart' date='Jun 2 2004, 07:43 PM

Check your waterpump shaft runout while your at it. Last thing you want is to break off the front engine water pump mounting ear from an unbalanced water pump.

Is that in the FSM? I dont see it anywhere.

-Marc

06-05-2004, 11:46 AM

#16

RotaryRocket219

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what exactly do mean by waterpump "runout" Sean? I've measured run out on brake rotors many time with a dial indiacator. It basically measures for uneven wear. How do you apply that do you apply that to a water pump? It has no "wear" surface, unless you mean endplay or something (checking the bearing)?