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Assembling Longbock (almost Done)

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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 10:55 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' date='Jun 2 2004, 06:28 PM
If you really want to do it right, cut out the stud hole portion of the old pump to cover gasket and use them as the shims. All those things do is replicate the compressed gasket thickness.



I have never found a down side to not using anything. Not a factor.



Lynn E. Hanover
they actually cast em into the engine for the 89-91's then they stopped, cause they couldnt get the remans to leak without that thing to leave out
Old Jun 3, 2004 | 02:24 AM
  #12  
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The shims are paper-thin. Banzai helped me out once when I lost mine.
Old Jun 3, 2004 | 07:49 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Jun 2 2004, 11:24 PM
The shims are paper-thin. Banzai helped me out once when I lost mine.
And they're steel too. Those copper ones are actually gaskets - probably for the metering pump lines?
Old Jun 5, 2004 | 10:53 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Jun 2 2004, 06:18 PM
they are in the bag with the water pump housing to block gasket
I got my rebuild kit from Atkins..I dont see them.



-Marc
Old Jun 5, 2004 | 10:59 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by scathcart' date='Jun 2 2004, 07:43 PM
Check your waterpump shaft runout while your at it. Last thing you want is to break off the front engine water pump mounting ear from an unbalanced water pump.
Is that in the FSM? I dont see it anywhere.

-Marc
Old Jun 5, 2004 | 11:46 AM
  #16  
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what exactly do mean by waterpump "runout" Sean? I've measured run out on brake rotors many time with a dial indiacator. It basically measures for uneven wear. How do you apply that do you apply that to a water pump? It has no "wear" surface, unless you mean endplay or something (checking the bearing)?
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