Guess the Mazda Problem
Originally Posted by teknics' post='859416' date='Feb 16 2007, 04:19 PM
yea i was hoping it was an interference motor, but alas.
However speaking of which last week a lady came in with a vw jetta that shredded the belt and popped the valves "i kept cranking it and it wouldnt start", tried to blame it on an oil change one of the kids did, lol. The tow truck guy said he thought it was just the alternator.
I got in the car, crank it and just hear a high pitched, whizzing/whine and started laughing, got out the car and walked inside and found my mgr and was like "it needs a full top end"...she had an aftermarket warranty tho, we dont **** with that BS.
kevin.
yeah it depends on what it is, sometimes those warranties are fine, for smaller stuff. for a motor, you always end up taking it in the shorts
Aftermarket warranties cover the initial failure and no subsequent damage. IE. They'll claim the $75 u-joint failed first, taking out the $7000 Allison behind your Duramax. They hand you $75 and say that's too bad about the tranny, better luck next time.
Tekniquies: You got an FD ?! Now you're an ELITE! WOOOT!
Got pics?
Also, more on topic: What car do you see the least, and then the most? When it comes to a practical everyday driver, what would be your faves? Considering you see what the infamous problems are on many popular cars out there....
Got pics?
Also, more on topic: What car do you see the least, and then the most? When it comes to a practical everyday driver, what would be your faves? Considering you see what the infamous problems are on many popular cars out there....
toyotas never die. only problems i see with them are the VSV (vacuum switching valves) for emissions **** goes bad and sets a DTC and your engine light comes on.
Those are a bitch to track down, cause there are like 4 or 5 spread randomly through the engine bay and the codes dont narrow it down to a specific one, so you have to take each off and test it by applying 12V and ground and seeing if the valves operates.
other then that they seem to last a while.
Mazdas i dont see to often either, but thats because most owners realize almost all mazda **** is dealer only as far as the parts go, so i think they go there just cause its easier.
umm, hondas and stuff i dont see too many problems with either, they tend to shred their cv boots and there exhausts all rot at the same spot and fall off/apart. and it's a 50% chance that it'll be pouring oil out of every orifice.
Nissan's are labor intensive (aka big bill) and a pain in the ***. they also have a badly designed muffler flange which actually pools wate ron top of the flange, rusts it away and then the weld breaks and you have to buy like a $300-400 muffler w/ hump pipe, plus my labor.
american cars suck...period. everything breaks. All of their A/C compressor clutches fall off and rattle and thats a pretty pricey job. On jeeps their new e-fans are imploding turning into shrapnel and taking out the radiators when they go due to a faulty fan relay which keeps the fan on constantly even when youre not using the car, the fan is made of plastic and held onto the fan motor with one tiny screw, the fan spins so long it starts generating enough heat to make the plastic soft and it rockets off the tiny screw and hits ****, shrapnels and destroying everything (done like 3 of these, and had chrysler call me to see what i thought, then like 2 months later they had a recall)
umm ford and chevy is ****.
hyundais and kias dont come in because of their warranties.
mitsu's seem to have a bunch of problems nothing to severe, and the 3.0 v6 tuneup requires extra labor and parts because you have to remove the intake manifold to get the rear 3 plugs.
people hate when the buy used cars and ask me what i think, cause im pretty good at guessing whatll be the first thing to break
.
kevin.
Those are a bitch to track down, cause there are like 4 or 5 spread randomly through the engine bay and the codes dont narrow it down to a specific one, so you have to take each off and test it by applying 12V and ground and seeing if the valves operates.
other then that they seem to last a while.
Mazdas i dont see to often either, but thats because most owners realize almost all mazda **** is dealer only as far as the parts go, so i think they go there just cause its easier.
umm, hondas and stuff i dont see too many problems with either, they tend to shred their cv boots and there exhausts all rot at the same spot and fall off/apart. and it's a 50% chance that it'll be pouring oil out of every orifice.
Nissan's are labor intensive (aka big bill) and a pain in the ***. they also have a badly designed muffler flange which actually pools wate ron top of the flange, rusts it away and then the weld breaks and you have to buy like a $300-400 muffler w/ hump pipe, plus my labor.
american cars suck...period. everything breaks. All of their A/C compressor clutches fall off and rattle and thats a pretty pricey job. On jeeps their new e-fans are imploding turning into shrapnel and taking out the radiators when they go due to a faulty fan relay which keeps the fan on constantly even when youre not using the car, the fan is made of plastic and held onto the fan motor with one tiny screw, the fan spins so long it starts generating enough heat to make the plastic soft and it rockets off the tiny screw and hits ****, shrapnels and destroying everything (done like 3 of these, and had chrysler call me to see what i thought, then like 2 months later they had a recall)
umm ford and chevy is ****.
hyundais and kias dont come in because of their warranties.
mitsu's seem to have a bunch of problems nothing to severe, and the 3.0 v6 tuneup requires extra labor and parts because you have to remove the intake manifold to get the rear 3 plugs.
people hate when the buy used cars and ask me what i think, cause im pretty good at guessing whatll be the first thing to break
kevin.
Ha! I've owned 4 Integra's now. Have changed and Axel once (CV Boot problem), Exhaust twice (Rotted out), and 3 of 4 leaked oil (Although not much at all, 1 quart between oil changes) all on 120-180k mile Honda's.
Oh, so how about Saab/Subaru's? And when you say Honda you implying acura too, no doubt? Same for Toyota/Lexus? Nissan/Infiniti...
So, what's about your FD?! Pics?!?!?
Thanks for the reply...
Exhaust rotted at the long s pipe just before the axle hump pipe? or was it the axle hump pipe itself?
1 quart is it enough to setoff the low oil buzzer so i consider it a lot. but you seem lucky, i have customers whose hondas change their own oil in my parking lot, uh i shudder at the sight of some of the oil leaks. then they ask what to do to fix it and i just start listing tons of gaskets lol. I'm trying to think of other honda problems I *see* but I cant think of many. I can list american car problems for years without repeating myself...ugh waterpumps religiously at like 60k bleh. Oh i thought of a honda problem, something about the distributor, i cant recall tho havent done one in a while but basically it stops starting and its cause a part inside the distributor fails and makes it act all wacky, lol i havent done one in like a year so i cant remember what the exact cause is, whatever.
Originally Posted by PhoenixDownVII' post='859557' date='Feb 17 2007, 05:55 PM
So, what's about your FD?! Pics?!?!?
bleh, i dont take pics of the fd, its fucked up looking anyway, insurance scammer (previous owner) scratched the whole exterior. getting the motor tonight actually, nice healthy street port, already have the t04R setup, complete fuel system and PFC, and pfs smic (came with it) that car should be a quick bolt together and off we go kind of affair, then rob's gonna paint it eventually.
kevin.
Not enough to set off the low oil buzzer, no. It's not much, at all. You see the oil issue with B Series motors? All 4 integra's (and my brothers/friends' Accords) are B Series I believe.
Can't most FD's be as such? Ahh, love the simplicity (that's possible lol).
whatever motor is in the late 90's civics, they seem to have the problem the most, probably more of a lack of maintenance thing tho, no one takes care of their hondas (at least no older individuals)
FD's suck, I now own one and therefore can say it. that engine bay is ****, i feel like im working on a newer car, cant reach anything, it looks like a clusterfuck. i love my t2's engine bay size
kevin.
Originally Posted by teknics' post='859570' date='Feb 17 2007, 06:14 PM
FD's suck, I now own one and therefore can say it. that engine bay is ****, i feel like im working on a newer car, cant reach anything, it looks like a clusterfuck. i love my t2's engine bay size
kevin.
You know you love it.
I meant simple AFTER modifying it. Go single, intakes, relocate battery, etc. etc. and the engine bay gets simpler.
Any engine bay is more complicated with turbo's. But I see your point in size too...
I've been in the Honda scene for years now, and the most common problem is indeed the distributors. Almost 80% of the time, if your car won't start, or just randomly died, it's a distributor problem. Whether the internal igniter fried itself, or this little screw on the rotor backed out, it's almost always dizzy related.
As far as oil leaks, that's just maintenance in my opinion. If you take care of most cars, they'll be decent to you! I think the main draw with Honda's, at least in my opinion, is that they are very basic motors and easy to work on (for the most part). I learned a lot on mine, but now I'm stepping up to wankels.
I still have my Honda to drive everyday, but now I've got a wankel for the weekends!
As far as oil leaks, that's just maintenance in my opinion. If you take care of most cars, they'll be decent to you! I think the main draw with Honda's, at least in my opinion, is that they are very basic motors and easy to work on (for the most part). I learned a lot on mine, but now I'm stepping up to wankels.
I still have my Honda to drive everyday, but now I've got a wankel for the weekends!


