Looking For Some Good Pfc Info
#41
I'll give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Thanks!
So just let me get something straight...I DO NOT want to reset the Power FC, right? That would give me a stock MAP, and that WILL blow-up my engine when I come on boost, right?
So just let me get something straight...I DO NOT want to reset the Power FC, right? That would give me a stock MAP, and that WILL blow-up my engine when I come on boost, right?
#42
Originally Posted by wile_e_coyote' date='Nov 8 2003, 01:33 PM
I'll give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Thanks!
So just let me get something straight...I DO NOT want to reset the Power FC, right? That would give me a stock MAP, and that WILL blow-up my engine when I come on boost, right?
So just let me get something straight...I DO NOT want to reset the Power FC, right? That would give me a stock MAP, and that WILL blow-up my engine when I come on boost, right?
#43
Originally Posted by wile_e_coyote' date='Nov 8 2003, 01:33 PM
I'll give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Thanks!
So just let me get something straight...I DO NOT want to reset the Power FC, right? That would give me a stock MAP, and that WILL blow-up my engine when I come on boost, right?
So just let me get something straight...I DO NOT want to reset the Power FC, right? That would give me a stock MAP, and that WILL blow-up my engine when I come on boost, right?
DO NOT REINITIALIZE!
By reinitializing you are basically setting the pfc back to the base maps.
#44
Remove power to the Power FC...There is no switch on it, so I'll have to disconnect the power to it, huh? Can I just disconnect my car battery so I don't have to open my kick panel?
BTW, I tried increasing the fuel to the cells around the 3/5 cell. I want my car to idle in 3/4 or 3/5. At 2/5 it was kinda rough (apparently a big port). It didn't really work so well. It still fluctuates, but now it does it faster, between 900 rpm at 1400 rpm. Does that mean I should keep increasing the fuel to those other cells? It also doesn't do it all the time. Does knowing that help?
This morning, it was nice and steady 3/5 and would steady out at -390 to -410 pressure. The warmer the car gets, the more it will do it. I actually think it does it more at night. Wouldn't this point to leaking vaccuum lines? I wasn't too sure until I tried this ECU trick, but it still fluctuates.
I know the car's battery died when it was shipped to me, (I'm in Hawaii, bought the car from Pennsylvania.) Wouldn't that reset the power FC?
BTW, I tried increasing the fuel to the cells around the 3/5 cell. I want my car to idle in 3/4 or 3/5. At 2/5 it was kinda rough (apparently a big port). It didn't really work so well. It still fluctuates, but now it does it faster, between 900 rpm at 1400 rpm. Does that mean I should keep increasing the fuel to those other cells? It also doesn't do it all the time. Does knowing that help?
This morning, it was nice and steady 3/5 and would steady out at -390 to -410 pressure. The warmer the car gets, the more it will do it. I actually think it does it more at night. Wouldn't this point to leaking vaccuum lines? I wasn't too sure until I tried this ECU trick, but it still fluctuates.
I know the car's battery died when it was shipped to me, (I'm in Hawaii, bought the car from Pennsylvania.) Wouldn't that reset the power FC?
#45
Originally Posted by wile_e_coyote' date='Nov 9 2003, 04:44 AM
Remove power to the Power FC...There is no switch on it, so I'll have to disconnect the power to it, huh? Can I just disconnect my car battery so I don't have to open my kick panel?
BTW, I tried increasing the fuel to the cells around the 3/5 cell. I want my car to idle in 3/4 or 3/5. At 2/5 it was kinda rough (apparently a big port). It didn't really work so well. It still fluctuates, but now it does it faster, between 900 rpm at 1400 rpm. Does that mean I should keep increasing the fuel to those other cells? It also doesn't do it all the time. Does knowing that help?
This morning, it was nice and steady 3/5 and would steady out at -390 to -410 pressure. The warmer the car gets, the more it will do it. I actually think it does it more at night. Wouldn't this point to leaking vaccuum lines? I wasn't too sure until I tried this ECU trick, but it still fluctuates.
I know the car's battery died when it was shipped to me, (I'm in Hawaii, bought the car from Pennsylvania.) Wouldn't that reset the power FC?
BTW, I tried increasing the fuel to the cells around the 3/5 cell. I want my car to idle in 3/4 or 3/5. At 2/5 it was kinda rough (apparently a big port). It didn't really work so well. It still fluctuates, but now it does it faster, between 900 rpm at 1400 rpm. Does that mean I should keep increasing the fuel to those other cells? It also doesn't do it all the time. Does knowing that help?
This morning, it was nice and steady 3/5 and would steady out at -390 to -410 pressure. The warmer the car gets, the more it will do it. I actually think it does it more at night. Wouldn't this point to leaking vaccuum lines? I wasn't too sure until I tried this ECU trick, but it still fluctuates.
I know the car's battery died when it was shipped to me, (I'm in Hawaii, bought the car from Pennsylvania.) Wouldn't that reset the power FC?
It idles funny when the car's warm because of the water temp fuel enrichment settings(don't mess with these). The reason it doesn't fluctuate when the engine is cold is because it's so rich. As the car warms up, the enrichment setting goes goes to 1.0. 1.0 is a percentage value multiplied to the total map. The richer it is, the higher the number is(my 30 degree celsius is somewhere around the 1.23 range...that's 23% more fuel!).
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