dead_juggalo

Please someone help me, My car has been in shop after shop for three years, after about 20k it is still not fixed and is in another shop. It has been to several rotary specialist shops but no one can seem to figure it out. Please help!!!! Here is the problem. The car starts fine and idles fine, once you put it in gear it doesnt want to idle and tries to die, once you cut it off it doesnt want to restart. Could someone give me all the ideas you can possibly think of as my mechanic that has it know has done everything he can think of. Has anyone else had this problem or ever heard of this? Out of all the people I have talked to no one seems to have ever heard of this. Please once again help me! Not to be begging but I havent drove the car in three years and have close to 60k in it. I know there has to be someone out there that can help it would be greatly appreciated.

fc3sboy1

to me it sounds like an air leak of some sortthat causes it to die at idle could be a gasket or something , has anyone smoke tested it from the turbo yet? is it flooding when trying to refire? is this an all the time problem or an innermediate problem? what about compression, how many bar is it and at what rpm? did anyone do a vacum test while it was running? what rpm is it turning over at when tryin to start?



to me sounds like an air leak then flooding when restarting but i could be way off there as i have not seen your car, i did however come across this issue on a s5 na car that did the very same thing, turns out on that car it was the lower intake gasket that sucked in but on a fd there supost to be metal so i wouldnt think that would be the case.

dead_juggalo

Well, if i had have known i would spend 20k and it still not be fixed, I would have just got a new engine. Each shop has charged me around 3500-7500 basically to tell me I cant figure it out and it still be doing the same thing. I know the computer has been replaced, all the vac lines were checked,bov,mapsensor,o2sensor, it has newley rebulit turbos with less than 100 miles on them, it has a mid pipe, downpipe, apexi gt spec exhaust, blitz sus intake.The car is an automatic.I will try to find out what all else he has checked. I took it first to the mazda delearship and they wouldnt even look at it because it had aftermarket parts on it. Any ideas? each shop said that the bill was for parts and labor, but made me pay even though it wasnt fixed.

RotaryVillain

for 20k you couldve bought an ENTIRELY NEW FD3S! probably one with less miles than the one you have in the shop for the past 3 yrs.



you said it is a AUTOMATIC FD! automatics have a lot more bs electrical stuff going on with them then manuals , i suggest you take it to somebody experienced with automatic tranny's and/or replace the tranny yourself with a replacement bought off ebay, they are very cheap on ebay becuz everyone does the manual swap. or better yet YOU do the manual swap and then you wont have any of that automatic electrical sensor bs garbage ****** up your driving!

RotaryVillain

here's what you need bud http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Mazda-R...sspagenameZWDVW



and if youre even considereing this get a new slave&master, cya

millennm

Umm, I had a idle problem on my 94 Rx7 with 38K miles on it. Here's the problem I was having:



"With the clutch pushed in, it idles normal. But, with the clutch pushed in, if I tap on the gas just the slightest, rather than it recovering back to normal(750 rpm), it drops down to about 500 rpm, lugs alittle, then recovers to normal. If I have the A/C on then the car would stall altogether. It just wouldn't recover back to 750 RPM while at idle if I tapped the gas. "

This was a problem at stop signs where I'd tap the gas getting, ready to go, then change my mind.



To fix this problem, I just turned the AAS(air adjusting screw) out one turn. Then the whole idle problem went away. No $$ spent just alot of e-mails back and forth with Dave Barninger( kdrotary@enter.net ).

Unfortunately, the AAS screw is pretty well hidden. It's under the black plastic air intake pipe where it connects to the throttle body. Just feel under the plastic pipe and you'll feel a hole in the plastic. That hole is for a slotted screw driver to go in. Put the screwdriver in there and back the AAS screw out one turn to give it more air during idle. The AAS screw on page F-17 of the workshop manual. If messing with the AAS screw doesn't change anything. Just turn the screw back where it was.

Jack L

Sounds like the clutch switch went bad...common problem...

Signal 2

It's an automatic.



dead juggalo,

Since you mentioned you've already taken it to a Rotary Shop I assume they've already looked at the FSM, but there is a decent size section on trouble shooting autos in there. You might want to read throught it yourself.

FikseRxSeven

its the idle control valve at the back of your upper intake manifold