that's the fan mod we speak of

 

Looks good, like Van said I would like to see the difference in running temps.

Whats the before and after.



Another easy suggestion to you. If you havent already doen so. Remove the weather stripping on the top edge of the firewall. It keeps heat trapped in th engine bay. Your good to drop 10 degrees in the engine bay just by removing that.



-Dave

 

i have read that removing the weather stripping is bad because it sucks the hot air into the vents under the windshield...any truth to that?

 

I do have the fan mod done, and it works great around town and cools the car very well. Anything above 50mph though and the fans are useless, it's all about airflow from the front of the car at that point.



I have experimented with removing the weatherstripping, it doesn't seem to make much difference that I can notice. I do know that the base of the windshield is a high pressure zone, while the inside of the engine bay is low pressure.. it seems logical that outside air could get forced into the engine bay and prevent the hot air past the radiator from escaping under the car as easily. I'm by no means an expert on this.

 

My 2 cents on the spacers:



Paint them to match the surrounding material. Your eye shouldn't be attracted to them. But before painting them, have someone machine new ones for you that are streamilined (pointed at the front and rear). Then when someone really does notice them, they will notice that they're not just spacers, but they're subtly aerodynamic spacers !



Good job

 

I kept an air temp sensor in the engine bay at the brake balacer and after removing the wether stripping i dropped 10 degrees in the engine bay.

 

Had this on my car for about a year now. It works great. The 99 lip looks even better.



Here is the original thread on the subject (quoting a PM I send someone):



"Sure. I put up a couple posts on this subject awhile back but I can't seem to find them now. The FMIC sits higher than the radiator. So much so that when the r1 front lip is off you can see the bottom of the radiator core. I fabricated a duct that allows air to flow UNDER (rather than through) the IC core and hit the radiator directly.



Here is a picture of it on my car, notice the clear turn signal as well:







It was relatively easy to construct. I cut the center section out of a stock touring lip, and installed it in between the bumper and the R1 lip(see attached picture). I used small pieces of aluminum pipe to provide a solid mount between the R1 lip and the bumper skin. You can see two of them in the center of the duct opening. I replaced the stock bolts with bolts that are more than twice as long. I also removed the inner portion of the stock underbelly pan and sealed off the gap between the radiator and the belly pan with foam and duct tape.



Prior to installing it I was having the same temp problems that everybody else was/is. I had a pwr rad, 100% water, and the fans set to come on at 88c. It was fine around town but on the highway my temps would still climb into the upper 90s and beyond when I stayed on the boost. With the duct in place I have yet to see a temp over 98c and most of the time they're below 95.



When I fist put it on I took the car to Giant stadium when it was closed for a holiday. My friend(gotham racing employee Ihor) and I lapped the access road around the stadium twice then pulled into the main parking lot and did 8 quarter mile runs back and forth.



First we ran the course with the duct sealed off.

The temps got up to 99 before we even finished the second lap. By the third quarter mile run they were over 102 and climbing.



We repeated the same process with the duct unsealed.

Up until the 6th 1/4 run the temps were below 95. On the 7th run they got up to 98 but stopped climbing and dropped back to 97. For the majority of our test the temps with the duct were more than 5 degrees C cooler.



This summer I'm planning on getting some road course time in. When it happens I will do similar back to back testing.



Downsides:

-less ground clearance, but it hasn't been a problem even with eibach pro-kit springs.

-because it is blowing air in BEHIND the FMIC it theoretically should reduce the efficency of the FMIC. I can't say I've noticed any difference.

-some people think it's ugly....I can live with that



I'm talking to a few people about fabricating the whole thing out of carbon fiber and offering it as a kit (with a larger lip as well). Hopefully that will materialize this summer. At the very least I will post a detailed writeup on project as is.



I think I've probably told you 2x more than you wanted to know. At least I did include a picture as you requested



Best,



-Chris C"

 

Lol, I forgot about the "testing" we were doing that night. It did seam to work pretty well though. I'm suprised no security came as we blasted through our little "test course". I do have to give credit to Chris for comming up with the idea.

 

So here my dumb question for eveyrone. I have a base model and need to know where I can get the 99 lip or would a lip from an R1 work?

 

I used a R1 lip AND the stock base lip. I like how it looks with the 99 lip though. Also I think you will have more ground clearance with that setup. On the other hand you may have less front end lift with the r1/base lip setup by virtue of the fact that it allows for less air to flow under the car.





LoL yeah that was pretty funny. (me) What is that smell-clutch??? (Ihor) no, tires melting......ok now it smells like the clutch.