Booztd 3

Hey guys



New here, and I've got a couple questions for you, as I go through my first ever rotary experience. I'll try to be short in my descriptions and how this all started



A buddy of mine bought a 94 FD 3-4 months ago. About a month after he got it, stupidly he ran 87 octane. You all know what happened, fast foreward to a few weeks ago. I'm pulling the motor out ( previously read, NO experience with Mazda's or rotaries for that) and I have everthing out in about 6 hours.



This week's progress.......



He purchased a ported/polished setup from Atkins and it arrived last week, I began stripping the old motor of everything, and transfering it all over. I managed to keep the clusterf*ck of vaccum lines in-tact as i removed them from teh old block. Everything's gone together decently smooth (minus a connector or two that cracked/broke due to age) I gave up on the project last night because we needed to have the oil pan cleaned out, oil lines flushed, oil cooler flushed, and the radiator pressure checked.



A quick run down of my current situation is that I have a 1 pin female connector hanging out RIGHT behind where the alternator goes, that i have no idea where it goes to. Every other connector is in place, or i know where it goes. I have 2 vaccum lines hanging out in the same region, but I think they go to the smallest of the plastic black boxes (there are 2 holes) I have pics of these, so i'll post them and see if anyone has any further recommendations.



Lastly, I looked around in FAQ and did some searching with no results. Will it be easier to install the engine with the tranny attached. I realize it will be alot more difficult to handle, but having to stab it (auto tranny) and do all the TQ converter garb isnt any fun, not to mention the tranny is heavy as hell.



Any suggestions/recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

amp

it can be done also with downpipe and accessories...

just make sure your cherry picker has a leveler to help ya guide it all in....

Booztd 3

Awesome



Thanks for the heads up, one thing though. Are we talking about the stock downpipe, cuz that bastard is pretty bulky.



Looks like the motor wont be going in for another day or two anyways as I found a rebuild manual online, and I had no idea the mixing plates sat underneath the injectors. There really is no way to get to those w/out having to pull teh intake manifold off, and all the nasty vaccum lines

rfreeman27

You dont really need them.



the connector is for the knock sensor. Look on the top of the front rotor housing above the spark plugs. That is where the sensor screws in.



You can put the motor in w/ the trans on and a dp. You dont need a leveler, just make sure you have two people on hand to guide it in.

Booztd 3

Thanks for the heads up. I went ahead and put em back in, just for measures, not to mention i didnt have internet access at the garage. It only took about an hour and I got to clean up the wiring harness a bit and do some re-routing where I had not done it so great the first time. I do have a pic now of what I'm looking for. I could have swore the knock sensor was a large speaker terminal type prong, not a small one like the connector pictured (in the red circle). Also, I *think those two hoses (in the green circle) to go the other black plastic box, correct me if im wrong

GreyGT-C

i see no pics... if it's a white connector, it's the water level sensor. Goes into the front of the WP neck housing.



I do ALL of my engine installs with the transmission, turbos and DP installed. I even installed one with the PPF connected to the tranny because the bracket that holds the bolt heads broke.