Damn! What Can It Be? The Pfc?
02-28-2004, 09:10 PM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
wait a minute.
you plugged the noid lights into the harness, these noid lights are basically resistors with a light wired in so they simulate injectors.. OK.
they flashed.
this means your injectors are getting grounded properly by the PFC when they are supposed to open.
I think the PFC is fine.
the noid lights I imagine require less to illuminate than the injectors require to open, you probably have a stupid wiring problem somewhere.
BTW, if you don't have it figured out by monday I might be able to drive out there and give you a hand.
you plugged the noid lights into the harness, these noid lights are basically resistors with a light wired in so they simulate injectors.. OK.
they flashed.
this means your injectors are getting grounded properly by the PFC when they are supposed to open.
I think the PFC is fine.
the noid lights I imagine require less to illuminate than the injectors require to open, you probably have a stupid wiring problem somewhere.
BTW, if you don't have it figured out by monday I might be able to drive out there and give you a hand.
02-28-2004, 09:39 PM
#72
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Frederick MD
Posts: 6,331
Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Feb 28 2004, 09:10 PM
wait a minute.
you plugged the noid lights into the harness, these noid lights are basically resistors with a light wired in so they simulate injectors.. OK.
they flashed.
this means your injectors are getting grounded properly by the PFC when they are supposed to open.
I think the PFC is fine.
the noid lights I imagine require less to illuminate than the injectors require to open, you probably have a stupid wiring problem somewhere.
BTW, if you don't have it figured out by monday I might be able to drive out there and give you a hand.
you plugged the noid lights into the harness, these noid lights are basically resistors with a light wired in so they simulate injectors.. OK.
they flashed.
this means your injectors are getting grounded properly by the PFC when they are supposed to open.
I think the PFC is fine.
the noid lights I imagine require less to illuminate than the injectors require to open, you probably have a stupid wiring problem somewhere.
BTW, if you don't have it figured out by monday I might be able to drive out there and give you a hand.
Figured I'd do the easy stuff first.. The harness SUCKS.
Anyway, again I appreciate the offer! I'll let you know if I get any answers when I try the new PFC.
02-29-2004, 01:57 AM
#73
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 292
Hey Justin, may I suggest that if you are borrowing a PFC from someone to test in your car, that it might be wiser to just try your pfc in that persons car with their map to avoid the possibility that there is something wrong with your car somewhere, and could possibly harm their EMS. Then you possible could be out 2 EMSs already and still need to replace yours and your friends.
If you try your PFC in a different car and everything works out you not only avoid the risk of damaging a different PFC, but can rule out the PFC being the problem and work from there.
But that’s just me (kinda conservative) but I am sure it will be fine if your confident you have checked everything twice already. Just throwing out ideas because I have been in those situations were your dispirit for a solution and not really thinking of all the worst possibilities, and it come back to bite you in the ***.
Good luck!
If you try your PFC in a different car and everything works out you not only avoid the risk of damaging a different PFC, but can rule out the PFC being the problem and work from there.
But that’s just me (kinda conservative) but I am sure it will be fine if your confident you have checked everything twice already. Just throwing out ideas because I have been in those situations were your dispirit for a solution and not really thinking of all the worst possibilities, and it come back to bite you in the ***.
Good luck!
02-29-2004, 06:59 AM
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 127
Originally Posted by rotarypower101' date='Feb 28 2004, 11:57 PM
Hey Justin, may I suggest that if you are borrowing a PFC from someone to test in your car, that it might be wiser to just try your pfc in that persons car with their map to avoid the possibility that there is something wrong with your car somewhere, and could possibly harm their EMS. Then you possible could be out 2 EMSs already and still need to replace yours and your friends.
If you try someone else's PFC in your car and it is a short in the wiring that can cause PFC damage---bam.
If however, you try your PFC on their car and it causes a short in their injector wiring system---bam.
"Hope for the best and expect the worst that way you are prepared for anything"
-Old Russian Proverb
Anyway how about this alternative----a little time consuming but just maybe doable. By doing this test you will be providing a bypass for a bad wire or two in the harness. Of course it does nothing to address the possibility of bad connectors or broken wires inside the connectors (nightmare).
1. attach vampire type connector to the leads on the ECU side of the primary injector harness and as close to the connector as possible (4W and 4Y on the connector block) Colors: LG/W and LG/B
2. attach vampire connectors to the Injector side harness as close to the injectors as possible (same colors)
I am still not buying a wiring harness problem if you continuity tested all possibilities-----which means also the possibility that you have a short between the wires. To test that put your DVOM on Ohms:
1. Check for continuity between the probes as a static test.
2. attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4W (LG/R)
3. test for continuity between 4W and 4X(LG/W) then 4Y(LG/B) then 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires
4. Next attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4Y (LG/B)
5. test for continuity between 4Y and 4X(LG/W) then 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires.
6. Finally, attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4X (LG/W)
7. test for continuity between 4X and 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires.
Well-- keep us informed and good luck
Jeff
02-29-2004, 11:27 AM
#75
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Frederick MD
Posts: 6,331
Originally Posted by jeff48920' date='Feb 29 2004, 06:59 AM
Its a crap shoot.
If you try someone else's PFC in your car and it is a short in the wiring that can cause PFC damage---bam.
If however, you try your PFC on their car and it causes a short in their injector wiring system---bam.
"Hope for the best and expect the worst that way you are prepared for anything"
-Old Russian Proverb
Anyway how about this alternative----a little time consuming but just maybe doable. By doing this test you will be providing a bypass for a bad wire or two in the harness. Of course it does nothing to address the possibility of bad connectors or broken wires inside the connectors (nightmare).
1. attach vampire type connector to the leads on the ECU side of the primary injector harness and as close to the connector as possible (4W and 4Y on the connector block) Colors: LG/W and LG/B
2. attach vampire connectors to the Injector side harness as close to the injectors as possible (same colors)
I am still not buying a wiring harness problem if you continuity tested all possibilities-----which means also the possibility that you have a short between the wires. To test that put your DVOM on Ohms:
1. Check for continuity between the probes as a static test.
2. attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4W (LG/R)
3. test for continuity between 4W and 4X(LG/W) then 4Y(LG/B) then 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires
4. Next attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4Y (LG/B)
5. test for continuity between 4Y and 4X(LG/W) then 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires.
6. Finally, attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4X (LG/W)
7. test for continuity between 4X and 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires.
Well-- keep us informed and good luck
Jeff
If you try someone else's PFC in your car and it is a short in the wiring that can cause PFC damage---bam.
If however, you try your PFC on their car and it causes a short in their injector wiring system---bam.
"Hope for the best and expect the worst that way you are prepared for anything"
-Old Russian Proverb
Anyway how about this alternative----a little time consuming but just maybe doable. By doing this test you will be providing a bypass for a bad wire or two in the harness. Of course it does nothing to address the possibility of bad connectors or broken wires inside the connectors (nightmare).
1. attach vampire type connector to the leads on the ECU side of the primary injector harness and as close to the connector as possible (4W and 4Y on the connector block) Colors: LG/W and LG/B
2. attach vampire connectors to the Injector side harness as close to the injectors as possible (same colors)
I am still not buying a wiring harness problem if you continuity tested all possibilities-----which means also the possibility that you have a short between the wires. To test that put your DVOM on Ohms:
1. Check for continuity between the probes as a static test.
2. attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4W (LG/R)
3. test for continuity between 4W and 4X(LG/W) then 4Y(LG/B) then 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires
4. Next attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4Y (LG/B)
5. test for continuity between 4Y and 4X(LG/W) then 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires.
6. Finally, attach one probe to the wire that goes to 4X (LG/W)
7. test for continuity between 4X and 4Z(LG) . There should be none. If you return any ohms you have a short between those wires.
Well-- keep us informed and good luck
Jeff
THanks for the tips..
The only reason I didn't check for shorts, is because I have to short them to make them work.. BUT, I'll go over it and check for that as well.
On a side note, I've completely ruled out the ECU. I brought a new PFC and a 2 Stock ECU's home last night. Nothing on either of them functioning different from mine...
NOW, I ask.. Where should I look for the fudging problem? In the main harness? Or in the driver side harness (That controls the EGI and all that crap..)? I DID NOT do any modifications on the driver side harness OTHER THAN removing the battery ground (As the battery is now in the bin) I would imagine (If there is a harness short) it's in the main one.. Anyway...
The ONLY OTHER idea I have is maybe the primary injector coils (Internal) are going bad and they aren't firing unless they receive extra signal (Via the jumper wire) but that's a fudging long shot..
Anyway, Thanks again!
02-29-2004, 04:29 PM
#80
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Frederick MD
Posts: 6,331
Originally Posted by FikseRxSeven' date='Feb 29 2004, 01:28 PM
replace your harness
I pulled it anyway though. I'm removing EVERYTHING not used. All the way to the plug and re-wrapping it.