Damn! What Can It Be? The Pfc?
03-02-2004, 04:51 PM
#112
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for what it's worth otc makes a injector tester that you plug into the injector itself it has 2 leads that go directly to batt + and - and you can then pulse them at different settings/duty cycle by changing the settings on the test box it is a nice tool you can pull the injector out and have it spray into a container or put a gague on the fuel line and watch the press to see if it drops.
if the noids work and flashed while you were cranking it i think th e injectors are bad. the injector can click but not open the pintle sometimes. with the noids working i would think the relays and such are ok.
if the noids work and flashed while you were cranking it i think th e injectors are bad. the injector can click but not open the pintle sometimes. with the noids working i would think the relays and such are ok.
03-02-2004, 07:25 PM
#113
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Originally Posted by tampaFD' date='Mar 2 2004, 04:51 PM
for what it's worth otc makes a injector tester that you plug into the injector itself it has 2 leads that go directly to batt + and - and you can then pulse them at different settings/duty cycle by changing the settings on the test box it is a nice tool you can pull the injector out and have it spray into a container or put a gague on the fuel line and watch the press to see if it drops.
if the noids work and flashed while you were cranking it i think th e injectors are bad. the injector can click but not open the pintle sometimes. with the noids working i would think the relays and such are ok.
if the noids work and flashed while you were cranking it i think th e injectors are bad. the injector can click but not open the pintle sometimes. with the noids working i would think the relays and such are ok.
03-02-2004, 08:51 PM
#114
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Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete' date='Mar 2 2004, 03:17 PM
yah from one lead to the next on the injector u should read 13.8 ohms or u have a bad injector.
the main relay should click.. if you can't hear it click.. (there are 2 relays that click.. the main and the circuit relay) which are right next to one another... u need to pull it and check the continuity from C to D. IF there is none. you have a bad relay.
If you have a shop manual its on the pages i listed.. for the pins for the relays. Thats all the fuel system is.. the relays, the wires to the injectors, and the resistance of the injector themselves... went thru the whole manual for ya
the main relay should click.. if you can't hear it click.. (there are 2 relays that click.. the main and the circuit relay) which are right next to one another... u need to pull it and check the continuity from C to D. IF there is none. you have a bad relay.
If you have a shop manual its on the pages i listed.. for the pins for the relays. Thats all the fuel system is.. the relays, the wires to the injectors, and the resistance of the injector themselves... went thru the whole manual for ya
Oh, and both injectors are 13.8 on the fuggin money.
03-03-2004, 06:50 AM
#116
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Originally Posted by 9BASE3' date='Mar 2 2004, 06:51 PM
Multimeter leads on C and D? Do I have to apply power to do this?
I really don't think your relay is bad because the relay is going to control the + side of the circuit. It seems like the problem is on the - side.
I keep going back to an injector issue.
03-03-2004, 07:39 AM
#118
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Originally Posted by tampaFD' date='Mar 3 2004, 07:00 AM
base did you put new injector clips on the harness? also what happens if the injector polarity is wrong ie the ground is where the power side usually is? does it matter?
03-03-2004, 07:40 AM
#119
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Originally Posted by tampaFD' date='Mar 2 2004, 10:02 PM
no c + d are open with no power but closed , have contunity with battery voltage. you can just back probe the wires. the noids do flash right? the injectors will only go full open i think they are bad fwiw
03-03-2004, 07:42 AM
#120
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Originally Posted by jeff48920' date='Mar 3 2004, 06:50 AM
Actually, as tampafd says, the relay is tested in both powered and unpowered condition. If you show continuity between C and D with no battery power (12v) applied, then the relay is bad. If you show no continuity beween C and D with 12v DC power applied to A (+) & B (-) then the relay is bad.
I really don't think your relay is bad because the relay is going to control the + side of the circuit. It seems like the problem is on the - side.
I keep going back to an injector issue.
I really don't think your relay is bad because the relay is going to control the + side of the circuit. It seems like the problem is on the - side.
I keep going back to an injector issue.