Did that a long time ago when N-Tech Engineering installed the Exedy. I'm 100% positive I screwed the pilot bearing installing the engine.

Michel

 

I have the same problem you are having. Could you enlighten me as to which one was the actual culprit? Due to where I live at it's hard for me to work on my car until a garage gets free so i'm having to pull my transmission off while im in a parking lot. Not fun. So to save myself having to do that, post up could you? And how hard is it to replace a pilot bearing?



T.c.

 

In my case it was the pilot bearing siezing the input shaft to the e-shaft. I had to grind it out with a dremel after yanking the engine and transmission as one piece. I then had to forcibly twist the driveshaft with a pry bar while keeping the e-shaft from not spinning. Fun it was not. Hopefully I'll never ever have to go through it again!



Give me specifics on your issues.

Michel

 

damn near exactly similiar to yours, except i haven't replaced my slave cylinder yet, and i need to pull the transmission to see what else is going on. It could very well be my throw-out bearing. When they DO go, what are the symptoms like? I press in on the clutch, and I hear this "whirrrr" sound. I take my foot off, no sound. Also I can't shift. But, I can put the car into gear and it'll move itself then but still it's pretty much useless. Any ideas/thoughts would be appreciated. Oh and I felt down in the bottom of the trans mission, nothings down there that I can see/tell that would make me think the pilot bearings gone but hey i could be wrong. Also, the plate for engaging the clutch where the slave cylinder pushes out on won't move reguardless how much I try to push on it by hand. I thought it would of been a bit easier to do that then it is now.



T.c.

 

The whir sound is fairly normal...some TOB's are more noisy than others. Mine is fairly quiet but it could be yours is a bit more worn. If you can press the clutch pedal and your TOB pushes the disk forward (indicated by the whirring sound) but the car does not disengage or allow the car to be shifted, then it's probably the pilot bearing.



Generally speaking symptoms for the following are:

Clutch or slave cylinder-pedal goes to the floor and has to be pumped to get hydraulic pressure



Pilot bearing-car cannot be shifted at all, even when the car is standing still but running. E-shaft and transmission input shaft are "fused" by the bad pilot bearing



TOB-very very noisy (sometimes) and pushing the clutch doesn't do anything. Sometimes the snap ring can come off causing similar symptoms. When it goes bad, it too can keep the clutch from disengaging (or incompletely disengaging, drags a bit) and can be very similar to the pilot bearing symptoms.



Clutch fork-sometimes they break in half. Pressing on the pedal does not release the clutch disk.



I would get a friend to step on the pedal first while you're inspecting the clutch under the car (car off). You shouldn't be able to move anything by hand without great effort.



20/20 hindsight, I would have used the same trick to separate the e-shaft and transmission input shaft while everything was still IN the car instead of pulling the engine and transmission. I tried and tried to get the tranny out to no avail. Had I kept the engine from turning over and used a pry bar to turn the drive shaft (through the U-joint near the diff by sliding it through), the two would have separated and I would have been able to remove the tranny and leave the engine where it was.

 

I was wondering refering back to twinturborx7pete how do you adjust it properly? i have a ACT s/S clutch and I didn't adjust it makes me wonder if not adjusting it is causing my rattling / clunking problems nows.