Full Non Sequntial
07-30-2003, 09:57 AM
#101
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 4,928
Originally Posted by Scrub' date='Jul 30 2003, 11:35 PM
okay backing the bus up......the silver line on the turbo inlet pipe....should be capped? It goes to the bottom of the oil filler neck. My car burns an excessive amount of oil....and im starting to think this is why....but I don't want to remove it if im not supposed to. When I blip the throttle smoke comes out the exhaust sometimes....blueish smoke that is.
07-30-2003, 03:05 PM
#102
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 16
does anyone have a picture of where that silver line connects to the oil filler neck?? I just noticed that my silver line is not connected to the turbo inlet pipe or the filler neck... its just suspended there, doing nothing. Now there is oil all over by the oil filler neck and under the oil filter. The guy who did my rebuild really slacked... this is starting to get annoying.
TIA, Brett
TIA, Brett
07-31-2003, 08:07 PM
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 197
I've heard theres a quick way of trying NS by removing some lines. Anyone know how to? Just desperate to try it before I embark on the big project?
Thanks
Thanks
08-01-2003, 07:28 PM
#104
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Originally Posted by sandmans7' date='Jul 31 2003, 05:07 PM
I've heard theres a quick way of trying NS by removing some lines. Anyone know how to? Just desperate to try it before I embark on the big project?
Thanks
Thanks
Step 1.
Remove the turbo control actuator and plug the lines.
Step 2.
Wire the flapper door open (towards the front of the car)
Step3.
"T" the blow off and charge relief valve lines together, plug the remaining line that runs from the charge relief valve to the lower intake manifold
Step4.
Remove the two lines to the charge control valve and plug the remaining lines.
(one from the y pipe to the charge control valve & one from the LIM to the charge control valve)
Step5.
Remove the Pressure tank & plug the lines to the precontrol solinoid.
You should have a total of seven (hehe) lines plugged
Two off the LIM, one off the "Y" pipe, two off the hardpipe and two from the TCA (turbo control actuator)
-Dave
09-05-2003, 04:38 PM
#105
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: OKC
Posts: 20
I have a Pettit Stage 3 ECU. Im already running the simplified Non Seq.
But before I put on the Block Off Plates.. can someone tell me if Ill have to do all those Resistors for the disconnected solenoids?
thanks
Oh and FD3Boost, nice site. Waiting for those How Tos to come alive tho!
But before I put on the Block Off Plates.. can someone tell me if Ill have to do all those Resistors for the disconnected solenoids?
thanks
Oh and FD3Boost, nice site. Waiting for those How Tos to come alive tho!
09-06-2003, 07:08 PM
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Originally Posted by ERXRX7' date='Sep 5 2003, 01:38 PM
I have a Pettit Stage 3 ECU. Im already running the simplified Non Seq.
But before I put on the Block Off Plates.. can someone tell me if Ill have to do all those Resistors for the disconnected solenoids?
thanks
Oh and FD3Boost, nice site. Waiting for those How Tos to come alive tho!
But before I put on the Block Off Plates.. can someone tell me if Ill have to do all those Resistors for the disconnected solenoids?
thanks
Oh and FD3Boost, nice site. Waiting for those How Tos to come alive tho!
Thanks and I know I know my how to-s have been waiting to get finished for a long *** time.
09-15-2003, 09:34 PM
#107
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
I finaly finished the Jerry-rigged non sequential how to.
If anyone is interested it's all ready for you..
http://www.fd3boost.com/Non_sequential_HT_Page.php
If anyone is interested it's all ready for you..
http://www.fd3boost.com/Non_sequential_HT_Page.php
09-16-2003, 08:22 PM
#108
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: The Nooga
Posts: 1,101
Ok is there anything wrong with doing the Jerry-rigged version instead of the full non-seq???
Can you list the pro's and con's for me plz.
Thanks!
Can you list the pro's and con's for me plz.
Thanks!
09-17-2003, 07:30 AM
#109
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
well the jerry rigged way is reversable, and you do not need to buy resisitors or block off plates.
The full version allows you to completely remove all of crap from the engine bay though which you cannot do with the jerry rigged version. But the full version is not reversable. As you will cut out the flapper door and not just wire it back. If you've never tried it go with the jerry rigged version. If you like it then finish off the job and go with the fulll version.
The full version allows you to completely remove all of crap from the engine bay though which you cannot do with the jerry rigged version. But the full version is not reversable. As you will cut out the flapper door and not just wire it back. If you've never tried it go with the jerry rigged version. If you like it then finish off the job and go with the fulll version.
09-30-2003, 12:49 PM
#110
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Martin threw this link my way.
http://www.mantissaracing.com/Mantissa%20R...tion_switch.htm
Seems like a pretty neat set up.
It is using a toggle to switch back and forth between sequential and non..
I didn't read through it to pick it apart
Of coarse this is pointless if you are looking to clean up the engine bay some.
http://www.mantissaracing.com/Mantissa%20R...tion_switch.htm
Seems like a pretty neat set up.
It is using a toggle to switch back and forth between sequential and non..
I didn't read through it to pick it apart
Of coarse this is pointless if you are looking to clean up the engine bay some.