fd3BOOST.. unless you have a J-spec RX-7 you wont be able to replace the ABS with your coils.. unless you have REALLY long wires.. remember...ABS is on the other side.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Yea I noticed that after I made that post. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Dohhh!

Pics of my ABS Removal

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/fcd34b1b.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/fcd34b27.jpg



I used some M10 to 3/16 union adaptors avail from a Checker, Schucks, or Kragen. A Wilwood valve ,2 8", 2 10', 1 50" 3/16 brake lines,and a 3/16 brass T . In all about $55 spent.

Nicely done.

i cant find the web site for the brake balancer can someone post a link



i'm goin to do mine soon

KOOL IM GOING TO ELIMINATE MINE THIS WEEKEND.....

I heard that you don't need the BBC unless you plan on road racing your car. A freind of mine has his removed and he simply re routed the brake line from the front right wheel across the car under the subframe and up into the engine bay and used a long banjo bolt to secure both front lines together to where the left fromt originally was hooked up alone. Something like that, don't quote me. Then just left the rear alone the way they were. Is that safe or should I get a BBC and do it this way? I only drag race and daily drive my car so I don't really care how my brakes stop me as long as they are safe. 50-50....60-40...either way makes no differnce. What I don't want is some crazy ass unsafe brake split in case I ever did have to lock my brakes up.

What I don't understand is why the extra valve, next to the abs pump/mess is the brake proportioning valve, which controls pressure between front/rear. running the lines from the master cylinder to that proportioning valve, then to the brakes would be exactly the way all non abs brake systems are built

Yeppers...turning my car from ABS to non-abs. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

so you agree with me? no extra BS valve