Guess what I did yesterday?



Well it wasn't too hard. Now I've all kinds of room on the passenger side of the car...which is where I plan on moving my coils and mounting my FPR over there...



...I'll post pics when I get my stupid digital camera recharged! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I WANT PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bigok: redlineunlimited@insightbb.com thanks

where's those pics?

Whooo Hooo!!! I'm drunk...I'll get pics tomorrow morning though..I'll post them here!!! Whooo Hooo!!! I don't drink that much, but that 6er of corona did me in...Whooo Hooo!!!!

Yea I 'd like to see a small how to and some pics when you get sober.

Okay, now that I'm sober, I can post these pics https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



First you will need the following things:



1. Brake "T" which you can get from any car. I got mine from the back of a Nissan Silvia. Just trace the brake lines going to the rear and where the left rear meets the right rear, you'll have a "T". Be sure that you have both the "T" and the banjo fittings.



2. Wilwood brake balancer from Summit/Jegs. Jegs part # is 950-260-2220 fyi.



3. Pipe cutter and a flare tool. I would suggest a high quality flare tool since the one we used SUCKED hairy monkey balls.



4. Brake line wrench(not required but HIGHLY suggested).



After acquiring all necessary parts, you will need to identify all of the brake lines. Identify where the two front brake lines connect. This is where you put the "T". There should be a Joiner fitting somewhere near the brake master cylinder. You replace the joiner with the "T". Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

In the previous picture, you will notice one of the lines has a silver covering. This line will go to the brake balancer.

The out of the brake balancer will go to the rear brakes. You can identify that by looking at what line goes to the back. There will only be one. Once that is completed, you will need to join the front line with the other front brake with a joiner.

Be sure to bleed the brakes starting from the tire farthest away from the brake master cylinder. Then go and test the brake balancer out. You will want to have the rear brake lock up BEFORE the front brakes. Doing so will cause you to still be able to control the car if you lock up the brakes. You can test this going to a straight patch of road and do a lot of accelerations/braking with someone else outside the car. Have them watch your wheels to see which one locks up first and adjust the brake balancer accordingly.



Fujita Engineering(FEED) of Japan did a test with the ABS vs. Brake balancer on a car that is equipped with 235/45 17's Front and 275/45 17's rear. They had a professional driver drive the ABS equipped car and the brake balancer car was driven by one of their Journalist. The ABS equipped car had WORSE braking than the non-ABS car everytime. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Here's an overall picture of my engine bay WITHOUT ABS...Notice what I put in it's place https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

Nice job. Engine bay looks alot cleaner now. And better braking to huh? What was the total cost on the parts. Sounds pretty minimal.

What is that in it's place relocated oil filter?

My ABS is located on U.S. Driver's side(...just like yours is on your passenger side.) I relocated the COILS from underneath the UIM and put them on top of the ABS bracket. Then I used my old FC Nology Hotwires sparkplug wires since the stock ones weren't long enough. I will probably end up buying the MSD spark plug wires kit for V-8's...the kind that allows you to customize the size of the wires.

Ok I was looking at the other side near the master cylinder. I thought that polished cannister was an relocated oil filter, am I wrong?

That's my cusco oil catch can...but the original owner took the rx-7 off of the strut tower bar and had the "rx-7" put in it's place. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I love that Lime Green Vacuum line.





I thought about buying a little of some bright ugly dayglow yellow to put back in mine.

I used it because it was FREE!!! But it does help when you're trying to put on hosing at NIGHT... :ph34r:

Yea I bet that is some bright stuff. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

Anyway. I see you are trying to trade out your strut brace? I have one to trade you.

bad ass dude. I might get rid of mine. Since I have no use for it. Did you get any ABS lights to come on?



-Rikki

Sure did!...until I unplugged the ABS computer! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

cool

When I get to Maryland next week, I'll show you what you'll need to do. You do have aftermarket rims right? :P

HUH? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

HUH? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif[/quote]

Well, if you have stock rims...the ABS will work better for you. But if not, it won't! <_<

Must have something to do with rolling diamater?



-Rikki

precisely!



The ABS computer accounts for rolling diameter and overall tire patch on the ground. If you change either(going to a larger rim size or a larger tire size), then you've changed the variables the computer uses to calculate the anti-lock feature.

Moving to the FAQ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

yours is confusing. i couldn't drive on that side.....oh well.



here is an ok pic if any of you care. my abs is gone too. this is what the left hand looks like. look at all of that room to play with....



http://24.207.184.210/images/Louis%2...%202%20100.JPG

precisely!



The ABS computer accounts for rolling diameter and overall tire patch on the ground. If you change either(going to a larger rim size or a larger tire size), then you've changed the variables the computer uses to calculate the anti-lock feature.[/quote]

Oh Great!!! Thanks jspec, just when I thought I was on track to get all of my realiability mods done this winter. Now I find out that because I have altered my wheel diameter my abs is out of calibration. Gheeaze this car will never be done! Tom

Ok Van I ma going ahead with this mod while I have the engine out. If I run into any problems your my guy right?

Did you ever get the longer plug wires? I like the relocation of the coils as well.

No longer plug wires. They'll need to be approximately 10 inches or so. you don't NEED to relocate the wires like I did, but you can...

fd3BOOST.. unless you have a J-spec RX-7 you wont be able to replace the ABS with your coils.. unless you have REALLY long wires.. remember...ABS is on the other side.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Yea I noticed that after I made that post. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Dohhh!

Pics of my ABS Removal

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/fcd34b1b.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/fcd34b27.jpg



I used some M10 to 3/16 union adaptors avail from a Checker, Schucks, or Kragen. A Wilwood valve ,2 8", 2 10', 1 50" 3/16 brake lines,and a 3/16 brass T . In all about $55 spent.

Nicely done.

i cant find the web site for the brake balancer can someone post a link



i'm goin to do mine soon

KOOL IM GOING TO ELIMINATE MINE THIS WEEKEND.....

I heard that you don't need the BBC unless you plan on road racing your car. A freind of mine has his removed and he simply re routed the brake line from the front right wheel across the car under the subframe and up into the engine bay and used a long banjo bolt to secure both front lines together to where the left fromt originally was hooked up alone. Something like that, don't quote me. Then just left the rear alone the way they were. Is that safe or should I get a BBC and do it this way? I only drag race and daily drive my car so I don't really care how my brakes stop me as long as they are safe. 50-50....60-40...either way makes no differnce. What I don't want is some crazy ass unsafe brake split in case I ever did have to lock my brakes up.

What I don't understand is why the extra valve, next to the abs pump/mess is the brake proportioning valve, which controls pressure between front/rear. running the lines from the master cylinder to that proportioning valve, then to the brakes would be exactly the way all non abs brake systems are built

Yeppers...turning my car from ABS to non-abs. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

so you agree with me? no extra BS valve