Guess what I did yesterday?



Well it wasn't too hard. Now I've all kinds of room on the passenger side of the car...which is where I plan on moving my coils and mounting my FPR over there...



...I'll post pics when I get my stupid digital camera recharged! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I WANT PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bigok: redlineunlimited@insightbb.com thanks

where's those pics?

Whooo Hooo!!! I'm drunk...I'll get pics tomorrow morning though..I'll post them here!!! Whooo Hooo!!! I don't drink that much, but that 6er of corona did me in...Whooo Hooo!!!!

Yea I 'd like to see a small how to and some pics when you get sober.

Okay, now that I'm sober, I can post these pics https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



First you will need the following things:



1. Brake "T" which you can get from any car. I got mine from the back of a Nissan Silvia. Just trace the brake lines going to the rear and where the left rear meets the right rear, you'll have a "T". Be sure that you have both the "T" and the banjo fittings.



2. Wilwood brake balancer from Summit/Jegs. Jegs part # is 950-260-2220 fyi.



3. Pipe cutter and a flare tool. I would suggest a high quality flare tool since the one we used SUCKED hairy monkey balls.



4. Brake line wrench(not required but HIGHLY suggested).



After acquiring all necessary parts, you will need to identify all of the brake lines. Identify where the two front brake lines connect. This is where you put the "T". There should be a Joiner fitting somewhere near the brake master cylinder. You replace the joiner with the "T". Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

In the previous picture, you will notice one of the lines has a silver covering. This line will go to the brake balancer.

The out of the brake balancer will go to the rear brakes. You can identify that by looking at what line goes to the back. There will only be one. Once that is completed, you will need to join the front line with the other front brake with a joiner.

Be sure to bleed the brakes starting from the tire farthest away from the brake master cylinder. Then go and test the brake balancer out. You will want to have the rear brake lock up BEFORE the front brakes. Doing so will cause you to still be able to control the car if you lock up the brakes. You can test this going to a straight patch of road and do a lot of accelerations/braking with someone else outside the car. Have them watch your wheels to see which one locks up first and adjust the brake balancer accordingly.



Fujita Engineering(FEED) of Japan did a test with the ABS vs. Brake balancer on a car that is equipped with 235/45 17's Front and 275/45 17's rear. They had a professional driver drive the ABS equipped car and the brake balancer car was driven by one of their Journalist. The ABS equipped car had WORSE braking than the non-ABS car everytime. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Here's an overall picture of my engine bay WITHOUT ABS...Notice what I put in it's place https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

Nice job. Engine bay looks alot cleaner now. And better braking to huh? What was the total cost on the parts. Sounds pretty minimal.