I figured that checking for codes wouldn't turn anything up since the check engine light wasn't coming on. The dealer is probably useless. You MUST have hooked something up incorrectly when you did that inlet duct.

 

I can't figure it out. The dam thing seems like it isn't keeping fuel pressure which is why I think the fuel pump or something else in the fuel system is bad. At this time I've given up on the inlet duct b/c I've looked over all of my work. I fixed the bad seal I had b/c of the way the filter was sitting. I put the AFM on the coorect way to include having it face the right dirrection. Did you know you could actually have the AFM on upside down? Well you can. One piece of advice on that is to make sure you can read where it says Mazda on the AFM. I almost want to bet that the fuel pump is original and it just started to go bad when I did this work. It probably started to go bad b/c of extra strain from needing to supply more fuel to meet the added air flow and keep the air fuel mixture correct. I just hope this is what the Mazda guys tell me when I give it back to them on Monday.

 

Yes !!!! I fixed it. It turned out that I forgot to put the check valve for my crank case presure vacum line back in after installing my new TID.

 

I told you that you screwed up. :P

 

the TID is a killer

 

what does the check valve look like......i can't remember.....i think it's the shiny thing that went intot the original TID. Glad to hear it's running right.

 

the mazda dealer in town in really worthless. And since when do they have a rotary specialist? they should all know how to work on 7's. They're mazda for crying out loud.

 

Johann the check valve is the one on he old intake that you're talking about. No the dealer doesn't have mechs. that know about 7s. Even the guy they call a rotary specialist isn't fully qualified as a rotary mech. I probably know more than him.