Quick Question About A Tt In A 2nd Gen
01-25-2005, 10:30 AM
#21
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: New Jersey
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i got liek 6000 to spent man. is that enough to get a shop to do it cause i cant do ti myself.
and yes 12.4 is possible with a auto fd. there was decent amount of work put into the engine and suspension. thast y im still keepign the car and not parting it cause of suspension and other mods done to it.
and yes 12.4 is possible with a auto fd. there was decent amount of work put into the engine and suspension. thast y im still keepign the car and not parting it cause of suspension and other mods done to it.
01-25-2005, 10:38 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by illrida1300' date='Jan 25 2005, 11:29 AM
i got liek 6000 to spent man. is that enough to get a shop to do it cause i cant do ti myself.
and yes 12.4 is possible with a auto fd. there was decent amount of work put into the engine and suspension. thast y im still keepign the car and not parting it cause of suspension and other mods done to it.
and yes 12.4 is possible with a auto fd. there was decent amount of work put into the engine and suspension. thast y im still keepign the car and not parting it cause of suspension and other mods done to it.
it's not going to cost you anymore to wire a stand alone ecu as far as labor time goes, in fact it might cost you less. So what your really debating is, should you get a stand alone, or piggy backs after the fact.
of course i say, do it right the first time.
01-25-2005, 10:40 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Jan 25 2005, 12:12 AM
i'm trying to tell you if you will open your ears.
using a stand alone ecu, you can bolt a tt rotary to your lawnmower if you want. The only thing that would be more difficult (than the drivetrain adapting obviously) is to organize the charging and starting mechanisms. In which case you could probably rig something up to work, but that's not the point.
with a stand alone you start fresh. you use a couple connectors and all fresh wires, and depending on the ecu, all fresh sensors. you have a shiney new wireing harness with a shiney new book that tells you exacltey where everything goes. then you just lay out the harness, cut it to length, then soder and shrink wrap it. secure the harness. that's simplified, but is basically how it works.
why not just use a stock ecu? because stock sucks that's why. You do all that work, and trust me chasing color coded, oil covered, dirty old brittle wires sucks ******* donkey *****. and after you do all that? YOU HAVE A STOCK MOTOR! what about when you want to turn up the boost? or add bigger injectors? or tweak timing? either you sit around and call yourself a dumbass, or you get a 500 dollar piggy back setup, then call yourself a dumbass because you could've started fresh with a standalone for 1k. stock sucks, stock sucks, stock sucks
i don't care how many you've witnessed or seen on tuner transformation, stock is ****. if you want to put a v8 in the thing then any monkey can make power out of that, but if you actually want the ability to tune the car and get those last couple hp, then there is no question.
and humping someone's leg while they soder and shrink wrap doesn't mean ****. it sure as hell doesn't mean that you know what your talking about. I know you want to have an opinion as much as the next guy, but don't recommend this guy and lead himself into a rediculously frustrating situaion that he will ultimalty regret unless he wants to have a 255 hp car for the rest of his life. as soon as he wants to change injectors or crank the boost he will kick himself for not doing it in the first place.
using a stand alone ecu, you can bolt a tt rotary to your lawnmower if you want. The only thing that would be more difficult (than the drivetrain adapting obviously) is to organize the charging and starting mechanisms. In which case you could probably rig something up to work, but that's not the point.
with a stand alone you start fresh. you use a couple connectors and all fresh wires, and depending on the ecu, all fresh sensors. you have a shiney new wireing harness with a shiney new book that tells you exacltey where everything goes. then you just lay out the harness, cut it to length, then soder and shrink wrap it. secure the harness. that's simplified, but is basically how it works.
why not just use a stock ecu? because stock sucks that's why. You do all that work, and trust me chasing color coded, oil covered, dirty old brittle wires sucks ******* donkey *****. and after you do all that? YOU HAVE A STOCK MOTOR! what about when you want to turn up the boost? or add bigger injectors? or tweak timing? either you sit around and call yourself a dumbass, or you get a 500 dollar piggy back setup, then call yourself a dumbass because you could've started fresh with a standalone for 1k. stock sucks, stock sucks, stock sucks
i don't care how many you've witnessed or seen on tuner transformation, stock is ****. if you want to put a v8 in the thing then any monkey can make power out of that, but if you actually want the ability to tune the car and get those last couple hp, then there is no question.
and humping someone's leg while they soder and shrink wrap doesn't mean ****. it sure as hell doesn't mean that you know what your talking about. I know you want to have an opinion as much as the next guy, but don't recommend this guy and lead himself into a rediculously frustrating situaion that he will ultimalty regret unless he wants to have a 255 hp car for the rest of his life. as soon as he wants to change injectors or crank the boost he will kick himself for not doing it in the first place.
im curt when im drinking! lol
01-25-2005, 11:52 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Green Bay, WI
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Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Jan 24 2005, 09:12 PM
i'm trying to tell you if you will open your ears.
with a stand alone you start fresh. you use a couple connectors and all fresh wires, and depending on the ecu, all fresh sensors. you have a shiney new wireing harness with a shiney new book that tells you exacltey where everything goes. then you just lay out the harness, cut it to length, then soder and shrink wrap it. secure the harness. that's simplified, but is basically how it works.
why not just use a stock ecu? because stock sucks that's why. You do all that work, and trust me chasing color coded, oil covered, dirty old brittle wires sucks ******* donkey *****. and after you do all that? YOU HAVE A STOCK MOTOR! what about when you want to turn up the boost? or add bigger injectors? or tweak timing? either you sit around and call yourself a dumbass, or you get a 500 dollar piggy back setup, then call yourself a dumbass because you could've started fresh with a standalone for 1k. stock sucks, stock sucks, stock sucks
i don't care how many you've witnessed or seen on tuner transformation, stock is ****. if you want to put a v8 in the thing then any monkey can make power out of that, but if you actually want the ability to tune the car and get those last couple hp, then there is no question.
and humping someone's leg while they soder and shrink wrap doesn't mean ****. it sure as hell doesn't mean that you know what your talking about. I know you want to have an opinion as much as the next guy, but don't recommend this guy and lead himself into a rediculously frustrating situaion that he will ultimalty regret unless he wants to have a 255 hp car for the rest of his life. as soon as he wants to change injectors or crank the boost he will kick himself for not doing it in the first place.
sothen if ur telling me that there is no splicing involved, can u pleas tell me how the gauge cluster will work?? or any of the warning lights?? or anything else that the ECU controls on the inside of the car??
it doesnt take a rocket scientist to match colors, so i dont see y ur making a big deal of it! the harness is inside the car and should not be all oily and coroded! i could see there being some corrosion but oily?? i think not!!
and just for referance, i work in a shop all day(yes im a mechanic) so i do know what i am talking about!
01-25-2005, 12:52 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Ricer240sx' date='Jan 25 2005, 12:52 PM
they are open
last time i checked when ur soldering wires ur splicing 2 harnesses together!
or, if u jsut want to get the car running u throw the stock ecu in and then save up for a stand alond and all the other stuff u want to do with it!! some companys make vechical specific standalons were u just plug the wiring harness into an adapter harness and then plug that into the unit, and sence u already spliced the engine harness and body harness together, u just plug and play like normal!!
settle down man sheesh! lol, and my reply to this is covered above
covered that already too
sothen if ur telling me that there is no splicing involved, can u pleas tell me how the gauge cluster will work?? or any of the warning lights?? or anything else that the ECU controls on the inside of the car??
it doesnt take a rocket scientist to match colors, so i dont see y ur making a big deal of it! the harness is inside the car and should not be all oily and coroded! i could see there being some corrosion but oily?? i think not!!
and just for referance, i work in a shop all day(yes im a mechanic) so i do know what i am talking about!
last time i checked when ur soldering wires ur splicing 2 harnesses together!
or, if u jsut want to get the car running u throw the stock ecu in and then save up for a stand alond and all the other stuff u want to do with it!! some companys make vechical specific standalons were u just plug the wiring harness into an adapter harness and then plug that into the unit, and sence u already spliced the engine harness and body harness together, u just plug and play like normal!!
settle down man sheesh! lol, and my reply to this is covered above
covered that already too
sothen if ur telling me that there is no splicing involved, can u pleas tell me how the gauge cluster will work?? or any of the warning lights?? or anything else that the ECU controls on the inside of the car??
it doesnt take a rocket scientist to match colors, so i dont see y ur making a big deal of it! the harness is inside the car and should not be all oily and coroded! i could see there being some corrosion but oily?? i think not!!
and just for referance, i work in a shop all day(yes im a mechanic) so i do know what i am talking about!
what shop is that? post the phone number and i'll call you there and discuss this further.
01-26-2005, 11:26 PM
#29
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 364
?????? im not, i didnt start this thread i will be doing my 3 rotor swap myself when the time comes!! im also doing a RB26 swap into an FD with a freind soon, i did a DOHC KA swap into an 89 240sx, i pulled the motor on another 240sx and turboed it, and i will be doing it again soon, and then next year i have been called on to do a RB20 swap into the 240sx mentioned above with the DOHC swap in it!
i do not go to shops to do anything but **** i cant do because lack of equipment and or what im too lazy to do and thats all basic mantinance!! i plan on opening my own shop in a couple of years, so me taking my work to a shop is obviously not an option for me. plus the only performance shop around here is bogus!!! they specialize in DSM's and yet it took the owner like 2 years to get from very low elevens into the 10s with his 1st gen TSI AWD!!!!!
and when i said i work in a shop all day, i didnt mean i was employed at one, i am in my last semester at the local tech. for auto tech. sorry for any confusion
i do not go to shops to do anything but **** i cant do because lack of equipment and or what im too lazy to do and thats all basic mantinance!! i plan on opening my own shop in a couple of years, so me taking my work to a shop is obviously not an option for me. plus the only performance shop around here is bogus!!! they specialize in DSM's and yet it took the owner like 2 years to get from very low elevens into the 10s with his 1st gen TSI AWD!!!!!
and when i said i work in a shop all day, i didnt mean i was employed at one, i am in my last semester at the local tech. for auto tech. sorry for any confusion
01-27-2005, 07:35 AM
#30
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 205
The tachometer gets its signal from the trailing coil pack. You splice one wire into the trailing coil pack, the rest stays stock. Coolant and boost, if you want them to work, you have to wire new sensors up because most stand alones replace the stock ones with newer ones. Note: soldering doesn't involves splicing two harnesses together. What soldering does involve is making a connection between two wires.
With a Stand alone ecu, you make connections to the nice brand new connectors that came with the kit. These connection often don't involve soldering. Then you plug the connecters into the nice new sensors you have. On a TII you have to splice four wires for the CAS one wire into the trailing coil pack, and one wire into the primary coil pack. 6 wires total, not the entire car. So instead of hacking both wiring harnesses and splicing together, you get brand new sensors connectors wires, and you have to splice 6 in. One way is easier than the other.
- Hand
With a Stand alone ecu, you make connections to the nice brand new connectors that came with the kit. These connection often don't involve soldering. Then you plug the connecters into the nice new sensors you have. On a TII you have to splice four wires for the CAS one wire into the trailing coil pack, and one wire into the primary coil pack. 6 wires total, not the entire car. So instead of hacking both wiring harnesses and splicing together, you get brand new sensors connectors wires, and you have to splice 6 in. One way is easier than the other.
- Hand