RETed

First time I've seen those words...where doy ou find info on such data?





Synthetic engine oil was never meant to be burned. Can you give me a refererence on where they specifically state a synthetic engine oil designed to "burn cleaner"?





Sure, my engines have had zero lubrication problems running Castrol GTX 20W50 and now Shell Rotella-T 15W40 - both are mineral-based engine oils. I have suffered zero oil problems with the turbos, as I don't do assine things as shut the engine off after boosting 15psi for the last 10 miles - this is what I use my EGT and oil temp gauges for. You do know that the water cooled center section (on the stock Mazda turbo) was design to minimize oil coking, right? I can't even remember when some FC turbo owner complained of a bad turbo due to oil coking. Don't get me wrong, I've seen scored center shafts on turbos, but this was because of owner neglect with no oil changes.



If you use good quality mineral-based engine oil in your rotary (even turbo ones) and stick with a 3,000 miles oil and oil filter change interval, you are fine. The majority of people responding to this thread support that, so I guess I'll file you under "paranoid"...







-Ted

1Revvin7

Ted have you ever opened a motor that ran SYN premix w/o an omp?

adamlewis

I dont know Ted...Maybe I found some of the data at Petronas? Why even bother asking such idiotic questions. Youve got a computer just as I do. Why dont you use Google yourself? Its not hard. I promise.





As for your second question; Why dont you go ask Amsoil? I guess they must just be wasting money trying to research how to make their 2 cycle synthetic burn cleaner.



Yes Ted...I do know the center section is water cooled.

Now...You do know I dont run the stock turbo, right?

I said Ill run the oil thats less likely to coke on MY turbo. Sorry if you made an incorrect assumption.



If you use any oil and change often and regularly, chances are, youll be fine. However, why take a chance? Why not run the oil thats better in the first place and still change it often?

Just makes sense to me.





But hey...What do I know. Seems like I just make up words and talk a lot of noise.

Dramon_Killer

Well, that was a partial lie, i havent even technically put 1k miles on my car yet, i think i'm at like 900 something. But i changed it at 400 because i didnt know when the last oil change was and then i changed it again at 800 or so because i figured you had to drain oil if you wanted to take the turbo off and i wasnt sure but at the same time i didnt want oil spurting everywhere. But considering how little i drive my car but how hard i drive it that equates to an oil change every 3-4 months or so. And when i will be driving it this year it really won't be much street but autox or drag runs.

Mazderati

I think regular oil changes are more important than what type of oil one is using. And I like the Mazda filters as well. Plus, you can usually pick up a Mazda filter for the same price as one of the aftermarket offerings.



I changed my oil in my FD every 200 to 300 miles, using Castrol GTX 10w30 and 20w50. It saw less than 1,000 miles every year. As far as I know, when oil is heated it starts the break down process. I think that is typically why most oil manufacturers recommend every 3,000 or 3 months. Call me "paranoid." :]



About that guy's leak, the sythetic oil probably isn't helping things, as it is most likely a thinner consistency. But switching oils is just a band-aid. :]

RETed

Yes.

1988 Turbo II with 20,000 original miles purchased around 1996.

The owner immediately switched to Amsoil 20W50.

At 35,000 miles about 2 years later, the engine blew and we got to see the insides.





-Ted

RETed

I believe Petronas does zero retail in the US. Are we talking about the US or some other country? Do you live in the US? Apologies if we're talking outside of the US...





Uh, I was talking regular engine oil, no 2-stroke synthetic. Apologies if I was misleads, but we were using Amsoil 20W50 synth in the engine and not 2-stroke in the engine.





Ok, aftermarket turbo...which means you should be even more aware of turbo cooling issues. Do you have a turbo timer installed?





And that's the definition of "paranoid"...







-Ted

teknics

ted vs adam.



go ted, adam's an ***.



kevin.

rowtareh

Mobil 1 15W50. And K&N oil filters.



Cost for oil and filter:35 dollars



Cost for a blown engine due to **** oil and oil filter:1500(just a guess,don't flame me and say you can get one for a grand,i will just give you a pat on the back since you are better than us)



The look on some jackasses face cause they just ate your dust:Priceless.



If you have not noticed, i am a smartass. Thank you come again.



-J

RETed

This is just an age-old debate...

We'll all go blue in the face trying to push our side.

We all have our opinions, and we have the right to express them.

I've got nothing against the pro synth argument; I do get annoyed when they tell you to shut up though.







-Ted