Oil Questions
#13
Originally Posted by adamlewis' date='Feb 17 2004, 04:01 AM
Oil injected into the combustion chamber is going to burn...
End of story.
People always say not to run synthetic because it doesnt burn as clean and will leave more deposits. Fact is, synthetics burn cleaner now.
End of story.
People always say not to run synthetic because it doesnt burn as clean and will leave more deposits. Fact is, synthetics burn cleaner now.
Castrol is my brand of choice, and I run 1 baldwin filter w a bypass filter as well
#14
Originally Posted by adamlewis' date='Feb 16 2004, 12:40 PM
I also run the Mobil 1 synthetic oil. A lot of ill-informed people around here will tell you not to do it because of the OMP, but theyre beind the times. A lot of gains have been made in the field of synthetic oils and now theyll burn cleaner than conventional oils.
We can agree on that flash points are generally higher for synthetics, right?
That implies that synths are "harder" to burn, which makes your statement of "burning cleaner" not necessarily true.
We've had HORRIBLE experience with Amsoil 20W50 synth running with the stock oil metering injection. They left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs hole which showed apex seal chattering marks. This CANNOT be good, period. This has NOTHING to do with burning cleaner - this stuff just doesn't BURN and magically turn into smoke on surface areas which cannot even come close to the flash point of the (synth) oil. REMEMBER, coolant and oil keep these surfaces cooler down to the 200F to 300F range, which is WAY below the flash point of most ALL oils, synth or not.
Mineral oil has shown NOT to cause any lubrications problems, so running synth oil is a waste of time and money, period. You're paying for peace of mind for your paranoid self, but don't tell everyone running synth oil is the end-all solution...
-Ted
#15
Originally Posted by RETed' date='Feb 18 2004, 12:42 AM
You know, making ignorant statements like that will not make you look good.
We can agree on that flash points are generally higher for synthetics, right?
That implies that synths are "harder" to burn, which makes your statement of "burning cleaner" not necessarily true.
We've had HORRIBLE experience with Amsoil 20W50 synth running with the stock oil metering injection. They left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs hole which showed apex seal chattering marks. This CANNOT be good, period. This has NOTHING to do with burning cleaner - this stuff just doesn't BURN and magically turn into smoke on surface areas which cannot even come close to the flash point of the (synth) oil. REMEMBER, coolant and oil keep these surfaces cooler down to the 200F to 300F range, which is WAY below the flash point of most ALL oils, synth or not.
Mineral oil has shown NOT to cause any lubrications problems, so running synth oil is a waste of time and money, period. You're paying for peace of mind for your paranoid self, but don't tell everyone running synth oil is the end-all solution...
-Ted
We can agree on that flash points are generally higher for synthetics, right?
That implies that synths are "harder" to burn, which makes your statement of "burning cleaner" not necessarily true.
We've had HORRIBLE experience with Amsoil 20W50 synth running with the stock oil metering injection. They left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs hole which showed apex seal chattering marks. This CANNOT be good, period. This has NOTHING to do with burning cleaner - this stuff just doesn't BURN and magically turn into smoke on surface areas which cannot even come close to the flash point of the (synth) oil. REMEMBER, coolant and oil keep these surfaces cooler down to the 200F to 300F range, which is WAY below the flash point of most ALL oils, synth or not.
Mineral oil has shown NOT to cause any lubrications problems, so running synth oil is a waste of time and money, period. You're paying for peace of mind for your paranoid self, but don't tell everyone running synth oil is the end-all solution...
-Ted
All I was saying is that GOOD synthetic oils will burn cleaner ( they are man made and dont have all the crap that cant be completely taken out during refinement of conventional oil ) and are engineered to be the best lubricant out there.
If you want to run that stuff through your engine, be my guest. But Ill stick to the oil thats less likely to coke on my turbo, less likely to leave deposits behind in my combustion chamber, and was specifically engineered to lubricate better than other oils.
#16
Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' date='Feb 17 2004, 11:34 PM
I Use the K&N oil filter and run mobile 1 synth. The car runs better than ever. But an oil leak seemes to be coming from the oil preassue sender or the oil filter pedestal and is throwing the **** all over the place. A quart evert 2-3 weeks is getting kinda expensive. Damn oil leak.
To not post another topic, Can any one offer me any help on what is causig an oil leak big enough to go all the way to the middle of the car.
To not post another topic, Can any one offer me any help on what is causig an oil leak big enough to go all the way to the middle of the car.
O-rings are leaking. O-ring leaks are common.
#17
Originally Posted by Dramon_Killer' date='Feb 18 2004, 12:07 AM
I use castrol GTX 20w50, change it every 1k miles, change filter every 2k.