boogerboy

i just want to make sure im getting this right, in banzitoyota's thread in the sticky theres pictures of his OMP flange, it looks like he "gutted it" by removing everything that would imped flow. am i correct on this?



second, i plan on using a themopellet and have thought about doing the weber jet mod on the eshaft, any opinions on it?



are there any other mods im missing?



thanks guys,

clay

Lynn E. Hanover

What is the hyperlink to that post?



The thermopellet is used in the stock engine to rapidly warm the rotors and lower unburned hydrocarbons.



The Weber jet is used to reduce oil flow to the rotors when oil pressure is jacked up over 100 PSI.

And the 100 PSI or more (up to 125 PSI) is used when screaming the engine (over 9,000 RPM).



What engine are you using, and what do you want to do with it?



Lynn E. Hanover

boogerboy

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=51440



thats the link,



im building a bridged 6port for a porsche 914, the grearing in the car wants something to wind out, so im planning on 10,000rpm's.

Lynn E. Hanover

Most of that link is about the engine oil pump flange on the front iron. The OMP (Oil metering pump) is mounted on the right side of the front case and is mentioned once in passing. Retaining the OMP costs nothing. You can mount the Rotary Aviation (Richard Sohns design) oiling adaptor between the oil metering pump and the mounting surface of the front case, in order to use a good 2 cycle oil for the apex seals and a good synthetic in the sump. It has nothing to do with the engine oil pump.



For constant shifting at 10,000 RPM, I would think seriously about an external after market engine oil pump, capable of a continious 120 pounds.



You will also need very light and somewhat short lived rotors, and race clearanced as well. I would use 200 or even 180 Weber main jets in the rotor cooling nozzles. Also a full rotating assembly balance job.



MSDs for leading and trailing.



Will this be bridgeported or turboed or what?



Shifting at 9,000 is a lot cheaper. The stock oil pump will do fine. Stock rotors would hold up fine with a clearance and balance job. Race rotor and main bearings.



There is your start.



Lynn E. Hanover

boogerboy

aight maybe im blind but i cant see what hes done to the omp housings, and is this recommended so that you can run synthetic in the pan and still use 2cycle oil for the omp?

Lynn E. Hanover

No.



All of those pictures are of the boss in the front iron where the stock engine oiling system pump mounts.



The oil metering pump is outside the engine on the passenger side of the aluminum front case. It is powered by a gear running off the crank. The same one that turns the distributor in older engines.



The point of the posts was modifications (rounding and smoothing) of sharp cast corners in the as cast kidney shaped holes in the front iron. This to improve the performance of the stock pump.



In the manufactuering process, these oil galleries are formed by drilling long holes with rather ordinary looking drill bits. The result of two holes intersecting is a razor sharp corner. Same thing where the holes join up in the cast kidney shapes below the pump. So, a bit of work with a ball bit and small sanding drums, can make a big difference in oil flow and pressure. In many hose catalogs they say a single 90 degree turn as in a fitting, will add as much restriction as a 3 1/2 length of hose. So adding a nice radius to these intersections is a big help.



Lynn E. Hanover

boogerboy

your knowledge never ceases to amaze me lynn, as far as external lubrication for the rotors does this look like it would work, provided that the oil res. was always kept in check?

Lynn E. Hanover

The front oiling is used on every race car I have seen so far. The oil gallery lined with the threaded dowels is just a bit sub par for oiling the front main and rotor bearings. So no matter what pump or oiling system might be used, it is a good idea to oil the front main through the gallery that runs right into the stationary gear oil port. You do not close the dowel gallery. The idea here is to double the cross section of the oil gallery feeding the front main. Blocking the gallery defeats the program. I use dash 10 for that run from the oil filter adaptor block. No pipe threads. Straight boss threads and an "O" ring only.



Use straight fittings for all. Then make the turns with formed tube 90 or 45 hose ends.



Lynn E. Hanover





Picture is a 12A front iron with a steel tube in the front gallery that is used to add a run to the front stationary gear. And a bitchin bridge port eh?

boogerboy

http://www.ncmazda.com/forum/viewtopic.php...fb27a1eb02cd62e



i ment to post that in my last reply,



so on the front cover, drill and tap the galley going to the front main? i think im kinda getting this lol. what thread/pitch should i tap it? then run -10 line from the oil filter adapter on the pedestal? just double checking before i go ruining a good housing. any recommendations on the filter adapter?

Lynn E. Hanover

I have never seen that mod, but it makes sense. Blocking the flow of engine oil and substituting a supply of oil from a bottle on the fire wall.



I would call Real World Solutions (http://www.rotaryaviation.com/) and order the correct OMP adaptor for my engine. (there are three)



The adaptor blocks the port and does all of the things you need to do without machining or welding anything.



When you change engines or sell the car, you can take it all off and swap it to the next car.



The choice is yours.



The OMP is not used in racing (other than stock classes) we premix for best distribution.



Lynn E. Hanover