Ok, I posted my book earlier as suggestions, not a must do...



The suggestions were for reliability, not that this cannot be done on a stock S5 turbo, the question is how long will a 14 yr old S5 turbo handle it. I knew there would be people attacking my post, thats great but look at the results, people broke...We all know Vosko and his luck, so he is already factored into the breakage from the beginning. all of these parts were suggested as Overkill for a reason. the same way the cars are built originally. You build a safety net into the build to make sure the weak link is not due to poor planning on your part. People are quick to critisize someone that suggests something more than what is needed. The fact is, a lot of these people have never done the work themselves. Personally I am all about cheap racing to a point, but the line gets blurry until you start breaking things, then the line becomes abundantly clear.



How many posts have we seen in the last 6 months about clutches? and these were from mildly modified motors, barely even tapping the potential of the 13b.



The Single Trbo forum is full of people looking to buy a new turbo for more power. And not everyone is an expert at finding the right turbo for thier application.



Fuel management is a touchy subject with me, putting a S-AFC on a car is a band-aid in my opinion for someone that is too cheap to do it right the first time. By the time you purchase a S-AFC new (used is s different story) Install it, and get it tuned properly, you could have bought a Haltech, installed it (have fun...) and loaded the pre tuned map for your car you are close to the same cost within $100 or so.



A lot of people overlook the smallest details when it come to the car, Performance is cheap in comparison to reliability. What may work on your 56,000 mile car will not work for the masses w/ 100,000 plus, the reliability factor drops exponentially.



I am a little upset by the amount of posts that I see about blown engines, only to find out that by a little preventive maintenance, or upgrading of the right components the problem could have been avoided. The point is you could pay a little now, or a lot later.



J9 says I will be running my car on the edge, but to be honest, I will be tuning the car to the 500-600 hp level a few times over the season, but acctually detuning it for reliability and consistancy. If I build the car to these levels, then only run around 400-450hp all season and make it through without breakage, I have done what I set out to do, build a reliable drag car with minimal cost. The parts I have could put me into the 700hp levels, I am building this car to extremes but how much money would I have at the end of the drag season with a 700hp car? not as much as I would running a 400hp bracket racing car with the same modifications. I have spent close to 2 years shopping for a lot of the parts I have, and I got deals that most guys cry about (Teknics comes to mind) I am spending a lot of money in certain places where the most questionable parts are, like cooling, clutch, and the fuel system. Building it right the first time takes away all the little dollar you to death parts runs to the store. Although I may not have a magazine spread for my car, I may not be on the cover of National Dragster in your next issue, and I will not have the prettiest engine bay in town, I know in my heart the car was built for a specific purpose, and it was done right....the first time https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

this is true i was running 100-101 mph trap speeds and 1.90 60 FT's.... launching is half the game with drag racing

Kraig ( ILuv88) also blew up his engine in a few short months

Bottom line...

Stock turbo, with full exhaust, full intake, and supporting fuel mods will induce the FC to run 13's all night long.



Now, this will most likely slip the stock clutch, sure.







-Ted

His engine didnt blow. His main bearing got distroyed.

My engine however, did blow. But i attribute that to me beating the hell out of it and pinging it like crazy. Ask ecko or iluvmy88, they both drove in my car when i would boost it really high to test it and ping so bad it sounded like popcorn. I didnt care if that engine blew up, and it did eventually. Leasons learned from it are first hand, not because someone else TOLD me what they thought would happen. So it was worth it ... i now know that the stock turbo can see 15psi and still pump out power. Anything more than that and you see a decrease in power. Also with correct tuning im sure you could run 15psi for a pretty long time (i might add, this is also with a greddy 2row FMIC, i would not recommend anyone run over 10psi on the stock ic). Im sure people will disagree with me on this, but oh well.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

And the difference is?







-Ted

i think it had to do with him having a dashpot.



kevin.

difference is that the only part of the engine that failed was the main bearing. That had nothing to do with over boosting.

i blew the stock clutch in like 2 weeks cause the clutch master failed and i launched and yeah... it wasn't pretty.



i have to say this 15psi on the stock turbo is FUN.. anyway yeah don't try it unless you have some money to burn afterwards https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

don't u mean credit cards?