I realize that my car still isn't working but i'm looking at some of my goals for when the drag season opens up. First off i'm getting everything fixed and i'm ordering all the parts i need to actually fix it.



Anyways, when our dragstrip opens back up in a few months i want to be able to run low 13s consistently. I'll have a 3inch TID, TB mod, stock TMIC, walbro 255, FCD, full 3 inch turboback exhaust by then. I don't have anywhere the amount of money i'd need for a completely new turbo upgrade so i was considering a hybrid turbo. It fits all of my short and mid-term goals and should provide enough HP to keep me happy for a while. What i wanna know is how much would upgrading my turbo cost on average and what kind of compressor would i want? I was thinking of calling the cheapturbo people sometime this week and asking them but i wanted some additional opinions. Also what kind of fuel system would i need? Stock injectors are probably getting maxed out at around this point i'm guessing. So would i need new injectors and if so would 720 secondaries suffice? How much would a set of these probably cost? Would i need some sort of piggyback fuel computer too such as an s-afc at this point as well?



Lastly, could i hit low 13s on the stock s5 turbo? If so how much psi would i have to run with it and how long would it last at that amount? What kind of hp should it put down as well?



Thanks.

i also would like to know the avg results of these mods because i'm going to have a similar setup (s5 turbo) but i would also would like add to the mix (sorry dramon) what kind of power i could squeeze out with an e6k.

If you are a good driver, you should. Vosko was able to do this with just an intake, downpipe, modified ecu to increase fuel and remove fuel cut and stock mufflers. Lot's of boost!!

****, kraig his 13.2 on his s4 ... his mods are in his sig. (iluvmy88)



and i dont have an official timeslip of my low 13 runs, but i do know that i was beating confirmed 12.9-7 cars on the streets. And that was last year with a stock s5 block, stock turbo, stock catback, stock ecu, and a stereo system (amp, subs, etc).



mod: fmic, fcd, walbro 255, no ps/ac, 5$ manual boost cntroller, and 15psi leaking down to 12psi



Granted the engine blew up after a few months of that torture. But thats because i didnt take car of the engine, it pinged like crazy some nights. I didnt really care because i was getting a more .. race prepped..engine soon.



lastly i'd like to say, if i tossed it on a dyno and actually tuned it for 15psi and not been a goober about it. It would have run on 15psi for quite awhile. That little turbo will put out power at 15psi, anything above that and i saw decreased performance.. lol

Theres hitting 13's then there is hitting 13's relaibly



Upgrades to consider for relaibility



1) Clutch, the stock style organic units will not take this kind of punishment for long, especially a high mileage unit, I would suggest a heavy duty clutch kit, nothing specific because each individual has their goals and wallet.



2) Fuel management, 13's are easy enough to do but will require you to manage the fuel, you can get the S-AFC and it will work for 13's but noone is ever happy with a specific power level for long. You should save up and invest in a stand alone management, cost and brand are determined by the availibility to have it tuned, and your wallet, A MoTeC is not a good idea if noone can give you support and your goal is only 13's but if you plan on playing the rotary game for a long time, the standalone is your best purchase in the long run.



3) Turbo, you are going to need as much for the turbo as a decent standalone management, I would suggest a TO4E kit in your case, the turbo is more than ready to handle the power level you need, is a common turbo and will not break the bank for the power it produces. Garret also has a large market support, think of it as the chevy 350 of the turbo world, parts, rebuild kits and support for this turbo are extremely good.



4) Tires, these will effect times more than just about any modification you have on the car. If your looking for a daily driver tire for the occasional romp at the dragstrip, the Nitto 455 is not a bad choice. If your looking for a drag specific tire for every weekend a set of ET streets are a little better for the big fun. A set of cheap cooper all season radials my do you fine on the streets, but will do little for you at the local track.





Just remember, you are looking to pull the max amount of power and reliability out of every component in a competition event. Be ready when things break, and they will! Do not be surprised when an engine blows, or a transmission breaks, an axle stub breaks or your tires last 10 passes and need replacement. This is all part of pushing a car to its limits.



Guys that have seen the components I have for my car call me Mr. Overkill, I have a clutch that will handle way more power than I will have, my fuel system is on the verge of pumping more than a gas pump at one time into my motor, My turbo is large enough to swallow bunnies, squirells, and small children. My intercooler weighs more than most weight reduction options (A/C power steering, and air pump removal combined) And I have enough spark power to light a small village for a week going through my Electromotive coil system. But I know that this overkill I have built into my car will handle the power levels I want for reliability on my car, and is heavy duty enough that I will not need to replace components all the time. I already know I will blow an engine, possibly 2, or even 3 this season. I am pushing my motor to the edge most of the time I will be driving it, so if it does blow, i will not be upset, I will not cry, and I will not worry about it, because it is part of playing this game.





For those of you reading this, check out the motorsports forum prior to going to the track, I have written a pretty decent guide on drag racing in the drag racing subsection. Feel free to ask Drag specific questions in that area.



Good Luck, and may the red light god not shine on you...

If you plan on running the stock turbo at higher psi(12+), it won't last long. Sure vosko made it to 13s, but after a few runs the turbo was dying.

then he got the hybrid https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Thanks camel, good writeup.



A few things though. First off i forgot to add i have an ACT S/S clutch, so i'm hoping to be fine in that area. Anyways how much would a hybrid cost usually? granted the turbo i have is in good shape. And lastly you have me a bit nervous now on the whole engine blowing thing. I don't plan on really driving my car on the street too much but autoxing and dragging it whenever i have the chance. I really doubt i can afford a new engine and now i'm a bit nervous as to how long my engine will last. I got a car with a fresh rebuild so i wouldnt have to replace my engine constantly but it looks like i'll still end up replacing it on a regular basis anyways? Oh yeah i have an upgraded cooling system too and a/c, p/s, emissions removed as well.

if you're a little careful the motor should last a long time, ie dont overheat it, dont run it at the ragged edge. camels willing to blow a motor looking for that last 10th of a second, you might not be (i'm not) just make sure you have enough fuel and a good ic will help here too

Ragged edge?