Engine rotates slowly, then stops
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So there could be possible damage to the e-shaft it the front counterweight is 88 and rear counterweight is 89 or vice versa.
The 13B turns, but it's not as easy as my 13B-REW. So I'm wondering if there is damage.
I'll check the flywheel/starter just as a place to start, but I most likely will be taking the engine apart.
Thanks for everybody's feedback!
He's got an auto counterweight because he's got an aftermarket light flywheel. The manual counterweight is built into the stock flywheel, but I do agree that you need to find an S5 auto counterwieght.
The 13B turns, but it's not as easy as my 13B-REW. So I'm wondering if there is damage.
I'll check the flywheel/starter just as a place to start, but I most likely will be taking the engine apart.
Thanks for everybody's feedback!
Originally Posted by RE87FC' post='793273' date='Jan 10 2006, 05:11 PM
He's got an auto counterweight because he's got an aftermarket light flywheel. The manual counterweight is built into the stock flywheel, but I do agree that you need to find an S5 auto counterwieght.
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From: My BIG ol TURBO-DIESEL
you NEED/MUST check the endplay of this engine.!!!!!
When the engine was assembled: Was the endplay measured? How was it measured? What orientation was the engine in when the endplay was measured?
When the engine was assembled: Was the endplay measured? How was it measured? What orientation was the engine in when the endplay was measured?
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From: My BIG ol TURBO-DIESEL
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 23
The root cause of the problem may be due to the spacer used ("V").
There was too much endplay.
There is heat scoring on the front face of the front stationary gear.
Some of the bearings from the needle bearing behind the stationary gear bearing plate fell out and were crushed.
The heat caused some oil coking and the front stationary gear bearing to seize to the e-shaft.
There was too much endplay.
There is heat scoring on the front face of the front stationary gear.
Some of the bearings from the needle bearing behind the stationary gear bearing plate fell out and were crushed.
The heat caused some oil coking and the front stationary gear bearing to seize to the e-shaft.
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The person gave me S5 rotors and e-shaft, but S4 counterweights.
The needle bearing, thrust washer, and stationary gear bearing are trashed.
However, the rotor bearings (both) and front stationary gear look fine.
S5 rotors you need s5 counterweights . Shaft is the same. You can change without complete rebuild.
The needle bearing, thrust washer, and stationary gear bearing are trashed.
However, the rotor bearings (both) and front stationary gear look fine.
Originally Posted by Nospig' post='818032' date='May 8 2006, 03:35 PM
S5 rotors you need s5 counterweights . Shaft is the same. You can change without complete rebuild.
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From the pic of the needle bearing, you can see it's missing a few bearings. The ones that popped out were mashed up and heated to the point where the remains look like solder blobs.
I had to use my gear puller to pull out the stationary gear. I love this tool! I use it for the counterweights as well.
I had to use my gear puller to pull out the stationary gear. I love this tool! I use it for the counterweights as well.
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