Engine rotates slowly, then stops
01-09-2006, 11:50 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 23
I built a 13B NA engine with a 89 rotors, rotor housings, and e-shaft while the rest is 88.
Fresh set of bearings in each stationary gear and the rotors have new bearings as well.
It has an 88 auto counterweight, racing beat flywheel, and act clutch/pressure plate.
During a test drive after putting 28 miles on the engine, the electrical power faded out. It is due to the alternator being faulty. The car couldn't be push started nor start with the starter.
The starter starts hard for the first bump and then it slows to a stop real quick. Starter is a new reman.
I was able to "unbind" the engine by turning the front main pulley bolt counter clockwise.
Then, I could turn the engine clockwise several rotations with no binding. It does turn slower than my previous rebuilds (more impedance as I turn). However, it does not bind until I try the starter.
Considering the fresh rebuild, I would rule out carbon build up almost immediately.
The oil is maintained and there are no signs of significant leaks.
Coolant is fine as well.
The only thing that comes to mind is possibly the spacer is incorrect thickness (since it's a mixed set-up of parts). However, when I assembled the engine, the play was measured to be in spec.
Before I remove the engine and conduct a teardown, I am looking for suggestions at other things to inspect, like the ring gear on the flywheel or starter. It's odd that once I can turn the engine manually with a breaker bar, it doesn't bind. When I try the starter (torque), it appears to bind.
Fresh set of bearings in each stationary gear and the rotors have new bearings as well.
It has an 88 auto counterweight, racing beat flywheel, and act clutch/pressure plate.
During a test drive after putting 28 miles on the engine, the electrical power faded out. It is due to the alternator being faulty. The car couldn't be push started nor start with the starter.
The starter starts hard for the first bump and then it slows to a stop real quick. Starter is a new reman.
I was able to "unbind" the engine by turning the front main pulley bolt counter clockwise.
Then, I could turn the engine clockwise several rotations with no binding. It does turn slower than my previous rebuilds (more impedance as I turn). However, it does not bind until I try the starter.
Considering the fresh rebuild, I would rule out carbon build up almost immediately.
The oil is maintained and there are no signs of significant leaks.
Coolant is fine as well.
The only thing that comes to mind is possibly the spacer is incorrect thickness (since it's a mixed set-up of parts). However, when I assembled the engine, the play was measured to be in spec.
Before I remove the engine and conduct a teardown, I am looking for suggestions at other things to inspect, like the ring gear on the flywheel or starter. It's odd that once I can turn the engine manually with a breaker bar, it doesn't bind. When I try the starter (torque), it appears to bind.
01-10-2006, 12:17 AM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
If you can turn the engine over w/o the starter and it does not bind. Then I would look at the ring gear on the flywheel and the starter gear itself. Out of curiousity when you checked endplay how was the motor positioned?
01-10-2006, 01:01 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' post='793155' date='Jan 10 2006, 12:17 AM
If you can turn the engine over w/o the starter and it does not bind. Then I would look at the ring gear on the flywheel and the starter gear itself. Out of curiousity when you checked endplay how was the motor positioned?
I recall that this motor orientation is such that the e-shaft is parallel to the ground.
01-10-2006, 09:27 AM
#6
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There is power (voltage and current) and the starter turns over.
The issue is that the starter quickly slows down and binds. When you use a breaker bar on the front main pulley bolt, the engine appears to be locked up when turning clockwise. Turning counter clockwise can "unlock" the engine and then turning clockwise, it spins freely.
My concern is that the engine doesn't spin as freely as my 13B-REW and it binds up when I use the starter.
It's either the flywheel/starter binding or the spacer used during the assembly of the front cover is not the correct thickness (I doubt, but it's a possibility since it's my first rebuild with a mix of parts).
I will remove the starter and see if I can bump start the car.
so is there no power right now then? or is ther power and the starter isnt working?
The issue is that the starter quickly slows down and binds. When you use a breaker bar on the front main pulley bolt, the engine appears to be locked up when turning clockwise. Turning counter clockwise can "unlock" the engine and then turning clockwise, it spins freely.
My concern is that the engine doesn't spin as freely as my 13B-REW and it binds up when I use the starter.
It's either the flywheel/starter binding or the spacer used during the assembly of the front cover is not the correct thickness (I doubt, but it's a possibility since it's my first rebuild with a mix of parts).
I will remove the starter and see if I can bump start the car.
Originally Posted by spaceman Spiff' post='793164' date='Jan 10 2006, 02:03 AM
so is there no power right now then? or is ther power and the starter isnt working?
01-10-2006, 10:55 AM
#7
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Posts: 959
If the motor spins freely by hand, I would attack the starter/flywheel/power issue. Do you have a way of monitoring your voltages while cranking the car? Pull the starter, test it...just because its a reman, doesn't mean it's in good shape. If the motor drove for 28 miles, I doubt your motor is too "tight" to turn over.
01-10-2006, 11:07 AM
#9
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Posts: 959
That's true...and you said you used an '88 Auto counterweight..I believe the autos counterweights are different than the NA.
If you find no other issues, Ludwig is probably right, you'll want to swap out the counterweights to S5 to match your S5 rotors and e-shaft.
Another note though, I would think that the use of incorrect counterweights wouldn't cause the engine to "bind" but run poorly in generally...I guess it's possible though that the wrong counterweights put more strain on the starter and burned out....
If you find no other issues, Ludwig is probably right, you'll want to swap out the counterweights to S5 to match your S5 rotors and e-shaft.
Another note though, I would think that the use of incorrect counterweights wouldn't cause the engine to "bind" but run poorly in generally...I guess it's possible though that the wrong counterweights put more strain on the starter and burned out....
01-10-2006, 05:11 PM
#10
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 163
Originally Posted by One320B' post='793223' date='Jan 10 2006, 11:07 AM
That's true...and you said you used an '88 Auto counterweight..I believe the autos counterweights are different than the NA.
If you find no other issues, Ludwig is probably right, you'll want to swap out the counterweights to S5 to match your S5 rotors and e-shaft.
Another note though, I would think that the use of incorrect counterweights wouldn't cause the engine to "bind" but run poorly in generally...I guess it's possible though that the wrong counterweights put more strain on the starter and burned out....