Boosting A Convert
#21
^ First off pushing 15+ psi on the stock turbo is pushing more heat then boost server high risk of detonation and popping any rotary motor. Now to upgrade a turbo that can push 15psi to 20 and not detonate and still be in efficacy range will require some sort of EMS. So your statement is still wrong and yes I could run 15psi easy on the N/A rotors and even 20 on a good tune but on any rotary setup 20psi on pump gas is a dangerous line but is done quit often. For instance SonicRat is running a GT42R turbo on a 6PI 9:7:1 rotors with an EMS of course so this alone throws your statement a curve ball.
#23
Sorry PinNDiv07, we didn't mean to hijack your post..hopefully it's been helpful enough to make your decision. If you do go the swap route, and have some specific questions about it..let me know...I've gone through it twice now and should be able to provide insight on parts, etc...
#24
Originally Posted by One320B' post='762821' date='Sep 25 2005, 09:16 PM
Sorry PinNDiv07, we didn't mean to hijack your post..hopefully it's been helpful enough to make your decision. If you do go the swap route, and have some specific questions about it..let me know...I've gone through it twice now and should be able to provide insight on parts, etc...
One the first, exactly,PinNDiv07 if you want your thread cleaned up don't hesitate to ask.
Stop whoring up threads with the my ***** are bigger than your ***** comments people or you posts will be deleted.
We have a pm system for that kind of thing.
2nd edit: im really not kidding. see above.
#25
Originally Posted by iceblue' post='763035' date='Sep 26 2005, 09:41 AM
You did not read. If you did you would have seen that an 89 6pt with 9:7:1 rotors is stock block. What is the difference from a stock block and a built block? Some porting :-D not really going to effect the boost numbers at all.
Have you ever built a race prep block, or even seen inside a rotary? Lets take a quick look at some differences in stock block vs a built one:
-Porting
-Seals
-Stationary gears
-Clearancing the side housings
-Adding dowels
-Coating the rotating parts for better lubrication/heat retention
That's just for starts! Granted now these things dont go towards the argument of an NA block vs a T2 block, but they do go against your "whats the difference" comment. All these factor into how much boost you can safely run and the longevity of your engine. If you want to talk building blocks and think you build one better, I say as you so often do: "You sir, are wrong." Get that 6port rotary miata running and stop wasting time..
#26
Originally Posted by iceblue' post='763035' date='Sep 26 2005, 09:41 AM
going to effect the boost numbers at all.
Not that we're always perfect on forums, but that should be AFFECT the boost numbers not EFFECT...boost isn't a special EFFECT, but it can AFFECT your dyno outcome... you want to be careful in how you say things on forums, if your not technical, somebody may misunderstand it... I believe this was your problem with what was said by some other members in another thread about using an air compressor to test the the actuators...