nopistons94

for what hes doing, it seems like a BBK would be a waste of money. WTF man, back the fk off my case. YOU DON"T NEED A BBK FOR THE STREETS. bottom line.

fc3sboy1

who said anything about street use here dude, i never said anything about a street car for show, all i said was i am looking for a big brake set up for the plans i have for the car.



these are the plans i have, time attact, track events at black hawk farms , elkart lake and a few others in the great lakes area and would love to take a trip to road atlanta this coming year, also will be auto crossing just for fun. now as far as street use, the only time this car sees the street now is when i drive to the track and a few times i may take it to work. other then that if i do street drive its on the back roads where there is alot of switch backs and tight heavy braking needed. alot of roads in my area are very fun and technical and i invite anyone in wisconsin to join me sometime this summer to have fun with me on them. so now are the big brakes nessesary. i think they are, have you ever seen elkart lakes frount straight to turn 1?

rowtareh

Would'nt the larger stopping surface...stop you alot quicker? The larger diamater HAS to stop you a certain amount quicker than a smaller diamater??



And I don't quite understand the cooling part, but whatever. I just figured a slotted/vented rotor is sufficient enough, unless you are constantly braking.

sidewinderx7

lol... Just dont even listen to 94, hes just arguing to save face now.



When he gets out on the road course for his first time (maybe after he turns 18) he might understand a little bit better about breaking systems.

nismo convert

More area, more friction, more heat all creates more kinetic friction, this leads to stopping faster.

fc3sboy1

im glad to see a few people are now onboard with the bbk ****, , ya your right i shouldnt listen to an fd driver, he just pissed now cause maybe ill turn not only quicker lap times but alot more heads as well when they *** an out of this world FC for a change.



did i forget to mention that i am not of the norm and i want what noone else has and make it work better then the off the shelf product, the more engenering needed the better for me. i prefure to do things on my own anyways just for the satifaction of knowing i did it and also noone to blame if there is a compleat failure but myself, god help me that the latter portion of that statment never happens.



randy

nismo convert

So what you are telling me, is that tires squeeze on the rotors, to help me come down from speed? Man I guess all the planets are aligning or some ****.







But I personally think that, 4 piston rears are way too much, maybe try getting a hold of 2 piston FD rear calipers, the 4 pistons will lock up way too easy, and cause you to oversteer. Or maybe get a really good propotioning valve.

rowtareh

So, my theory is correct. So to disperse of the heat properly, a cross drilled/vented rotor would be sufficient enough, with the proper brake fluid, along with some extra venting going towards the rotor.



How the **** does a tire stop a car?? When you are stopping, there is nothing to do with a tread design???



4 piston rear calipers?? That is just ******* overkill.

Cheers!

Depends on what you use your car for? I cracked the set of x-drilled rotors I had with some agressive compounded pads. First the surface turned blue, then little surface cracks formed, then the little surface cracks made their way to the holes and I was scared to run them anymore. A FD that was time trial racing with me shattered a disc. It took out his whole front left suspension in the process and ruined the tire and wheel as well.



Tires decrease stopping distance unless the brakes are running so hot you are glazing pads and boiling fluids. If that was the case you need bigger brakes to dissiplate more heat.



If you have a larger diameter rotor and move the caliper out you are increasing the mechanical advantage of the pad clamping on the rotor. Think of it as a cheater pipe on your rachet when you have to get more torque to remove a rusted nut. You will increase the deceleration potential of your car. However the rate at which you can decrease you speed is dependant on the static frictional forces on your tire and the road. If you haev too much braking power you will over power your tires and it will lock up.



You will get better stopping distances with softer compounded tire and wider tread.

Cheers!

Futhermore... (quick edit timed out)



If you have a wider thread you are increasing the contact patch which in turns increases your static friction since for each moment the contact patch is generated with the ground the tire has more peices of little rubber contributing tot eh static friction.



For a stock braking system there is more than enough braking / clamping power to lock up the tires no problem. The problem is doing that over repeated cycles of heavy use. It will get to a point where the properties of the brake pad and fluids change such that the clamping force generated at above 700F can no longer create teh clamping force of the system when it was at 100 F. At that point you need better stuff, better fluids, better pads. If you are doing lots of laps you will need a big braking system since there is less stress. THe bigger braking system runs cooler and wears less if you use the same type of fluid and same compound pad. which means you will make it to the checker flag.